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Topic: POWER DRAIN

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POWER DRAIN

no

Been chasing a power drain for a few weeks now. Mechanic has been unable to run it down.  We did disconnect the rear power lock actuator which was shorting and cycling on its own.  But the current drain is still there.  The battery is new, load tests say it and alternator are okay.  I'm at a loss, I have checked all 4 doors wiring for broken or frayed wires and found none, and I am running out of money to keep throwing at it, but is there a master way to shut off all the power locks/windows/mirrors until I can get the time and money to run this down?  If there were one fuse to pull to kill the whole system thatd be great, if it still drains after that, I gotta start looking elsewhere....

2001 Cherokee Limited 4x4, 4.0, etc.....



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Why not just put a disconnect off the positive battery terminal ? Something like this :
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/battery-safety-switches/1461

Haven't looked at the schematic for a while, but just metering across the individual fuses, with the fuses pulled, should narrow down which circuit is at fault.

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This is my #3 solution.  I have a very fair mechanic who hasn't charged me a dime for this particular issue, he's a pay me when its fixed.  We KNOW the rear power door lock actuator was bad.  But yes, were gonna waste 1 more shot at fixing it right, then go to the cutoff switch.  Don't get me wrong, I LOVE this JEEP, but its basically 11 years old and I am not gonna dump a ton of money into chasing an electric gremlin.

This Cherokee was bought used from a supposedly reputable dealer, I won't take the time to list everything that was bypassed, hotwired, and rigged that I and my mechanic have found in the 6 months I have had it.

But I did learn one valuable lesson...  next used car I buy I will pull the underhood and indoor fuse panels on looking for oh say coathanger wire in place of the relay that turns the AC compressor on and off.  Yeah...... its been a series of that kinda things.....



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From my experience it's a lot of times been the glovebox light. The switch itself breaks and does not shut the light off. You don't notice it because when you open it, it's on. Maybe check that and see if the switch is broken; thus not turning off the light...



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Just for giggles I'll pull that joker tomorrow.........



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My real dad had a early S10 blazer, and the door switch that turns the dome light on when the door is open was at fault.

My suggestion would be (engine off) remove each fuse, and test the amperage (probably milliamps) going through each.

The computer and radio will probably use a little juice, but everything else should be almost zero.

If it's enough drain to cause issues, you'll know it from an abnormally high amp draw.

don't forget both fuse panels!smile



-- Edited by ChevelleSSLS6 on Sunday 25th of December 2011 01:14:34 AM

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