Well I was able to work on it a bit today.

I know some of this is pretty basic, but I decided to document it as much as I could.

First we are going to do the radiator removal. You will need to remove you front header panel to get to the radiator. To do this first you will need to remove a few pieces from your grill.

You first need to remove the 4 screws that hold the headlight bezel on.

You than need to remove the bezel, and the side marker. Once you have those removed you will need to remove the side marker bezel as well to gain access to the 2 bolts that hold the header panel on. You will need to remove 1 screw, and 2 bolts from the side marker bezel.

You than will be able to remove the 2 nuts that hold on the header panel.

Next you will need to remove several bolts and nuts from the radiator support so you can remove the header panel. Their are 3 large bolts on each side, as well as 2 nuts in the center.

Their are also 4 nuts hidden on the back side of the header panel at the top. These need to be removed as well.

And lastly, their is a single bolt hidden on the bottom side that holds the bottom in. This can be accessed from underneath.

Once you have all the nuts and bolts removed, you can pull the header panel out and than remove the radiator support. You do not need to remove the aux. fan (however disconnect it) as it will pull out with the support.

You now have access to the radiator. To remove it you will need to undo the upper and lower radiator hose, as well as both transmission lines. You will also need to remove the rubber isolator on the top of the old radiator so you can use it on the new one. Their are than 1 nut on each side that holds the radiator to the ac condenser. Once you remove these you can pull the radiator out.

Here is a comparison of my old CSF for the closed loop system beside the new CSF for the open loop system. Notice the only real difference is the filler neck. Also notice that the thermo switch is on the radiator on the old one, and their is no spot for it on the new one (we'll talk about that later).

I also at this time decided I was going to change the t-stat housing to a new Hesco high flow housing as well as change the t-stat. To remove the t-stat housing you need to disconnect all the hoses (3) going to it, as well as remove the 2 bolts that hold it on.

Once you have it removed, you need to scrape off the old gasket and remove any RTV that was their prior. A razor blade works well. When installing the new t-stat and gasket, I used a bit of RTV to make sure I got a good seal. I than installed the new Hesco high-flow t-stat housing. Notice that the new Hesco unit has hole at the top. This is due to the fact that the newer open loop system's from the factory have a thermo switch for the aux. fan. I have yet to decide what I am going to do with the aux. fan (put it on a switch, or use a thermo switch in the t-stat housing), so I placed a plug in it for the time being that can easily be removed it need be.

I next changed the water pump witch I will document at a later time. Now is a good time since you have the radiator out to do this job since you have room. [B]I will update this post with a detailed write-up on how to change the water pump at a later time.

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Next I reinstalled the new CSF 3-Core radiator for the open loop setup.

And than installed the new lower BRX radiator hose. This was honestly probably the hardest part thus far of the install. The BRX hoses are much thicker and thus less playable. I ended up getting out some hose lube and it than slipped right on.

I ran out of day light, so I will update the rest of the install at a later time with pics.