Ok, so yesterday I started hearing a clunking from underneath the XJ. It only happens when the brakes are applied. Furthermore, the sound coincides with the rotation of the tires - the slower I go, the slower the clunk repeats.
To test things, I drove in a parking lot with my brakes and gas applied together to see if I can reproduce the sound at any speed - I can. Light braking does nothing but a harder press, regardless of speed, leads to a clunking. The sound almost sounds like it's coming from the drive shaft/t-case area, but I can't possibly imagine how the brakes would impact anything there. Remember, the sound only happens when the brakes are applied.
I changed my pads and rotors a few months ago and this sound just popped up now. I don't even know where to start. It's like a popping sound but way louder than if something were stuck in my tires. It does not produce any noticeable shaking or vibrations...just the sound.
It kind of worries me, as I don't want my d-shaft blowing apart on my DD. Any ideas via the internet? Anyone willing to help an XJer in NW Indianapolis out by stopping by? Thanks in advance!
I'll check that out today. Oh, and I did notice that it does actually make a vibration in the car, not just the noise. Considering the amount of oil sludge in this thing along with the black sparkplugs and inverted U rear leafs, it's a safe bet that NOTHING in this car has been replaced. Probably about time to check of the D-shaft.
I wasn't able to check out the drive shaft but I spent lots of time thinking. Here is what I think.
The ujoints are probably the culprit, as indicated above. As the brakes slow the vehicle, it forces the drive shaft to slow - it doesn't want to though as it's naturally spinning via the t-case. It's putting pressure on the u-joints, which are clearly a bit sloppy, as they are popping as they rotate.
Furthermore, the pressure on the u-joints is probably caused by the increased pinion angle from my sagging leaf springs. Because they are flat, almost inverted, the transfer case is lower and therefore the driveshaft is forced to a non-optimal angle. It's therefore possible that the drive shaft is too long for this angle as the required distance from the axle assembly to the t-case is too short.
Therefore, I need to raise my rear via new leafs and shocks to relieve the pressure. However, because the damage is done on the u-joints, they will have to be switched out as well.
Does this sound logical and reasonable to you guys? Further, does anyone have stock suspension components that can be floated my way for a reasonable price? I'd prefer to go with both front and rear, as she rides like complete crap. Thanks for any help!
PS - I'll double check the d-shaft tonight, I promise!
Shaft is definitely sloppy - both front and rear. That, and I'm leaking lots of transfer case fluid. Not good.
Sunday I'll be dropping the oil pan and changing the gasket and rear main seal along with the oil filter adapter o rings. Then, if I'm adventurous I'll change all the ujoints. If anyone cares to help me out here in Indy, PM me! Thanks for any help!