In order to get this upper half out, you'll need to use a punch or sharp tool (we ended up using a small torx driver and a hammer) to push the seal out from one side. Be very careful not to score the crankshaft. The seal has a metal support wire inside it, this is what you'll be pushing on with the punch to get the seal out. Just remember when your installing it that the lip of the seal must face to the front of the engine.

-- Edited by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW at 17:25, 2008-02-02

 I usually drop the crank down alittle by loosening all of the main caps and them try to get under the edge with a pick or small screw driver to separate the bond to the metal (if possible) some of these are a real bear to get out.

I tried the screw idea and that didn't work. In fact, it's a bad idea. While pulling it lightly scratched the crank. Let's hope that the scratch doesn't tear the crap out of the new seal.

Then I tried loosening all the bolts holding the crank in place only to realize that it was still connected to the pistons and even my whole body weight couldn't get the pistons down.

So I took a torch and tried to melt one of it to expose the wire so I could grab it. Just to let you know, rear main seals don't melt.

After lots of playing with it she finally came out and the new one went in without issue. Of course, the freakin' oil pan was almost as hard going in as it was out but I eventually got it. Something to note, I put a new FelPro pan gasket in and she's muck thicker than a standard gasket. I actually had to use a c-clamp to hold the pan to the block so that I had both hands to get the bolts in.

I was too tired to keep dealing with the bolts so I gave up for the night. I should be able to finish up tonight without much effort.