Well, while torqueing my oil pan bolts, I stripped the bolt where it bolts in to. I've never tapped a new thread before, so I'm really hesitant (and PISSED) about doing this.
Anyone have experience and willing to help me out here in Indy (preferrably before Haspin)? Also, I think part of the culprit may be my torque wrench. I have a 1/2 torque wrench converted down to a 1/4 so that I can torque to correct size sockets. The wrench goes down to the proper torque, but I feel like it's just way too much of a lever on these bolts (obvisouly). I'm hand tightening the rest of em (8 lbs is about hand tight I believe) but I need help tapping the new hole.
Hello there, I would suggest skipping the torque wrench and snug them down hand tight, you can always go back and firm them up if you find a leak. Also a good idea after a few heat cycles. There are a few ways around a stripped thread, helicoil, oversize, JB weld. These are a real bear in the wrong location.
Ive tapped a few holes, but never done a block.... I think your first problem was the 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. Might look into gettin a 3/8 drive.
helicoil is good stuff, i think it comes with everything you need and instructions. Good Luck!
__________________
-Chris
~97 GMC Sonoma - 2.2L 5spd DD ~77 Ford F100 - 351M/400 C6 Project, soon to be DD ~89 Ford Bronco - 302 AOD 33x12.5 Trail rig - Stocker for now
Personally, I'd try to get around tapping that thing.
1st option would be to try a thread chaser to see if you can get some threads back in there. Then just be careful when tightening it back down.
2nd option, I'd try shoving a matchstick or other small piece of wood and some blue loctite in there and see if you can get it to tighten up. This of course would be balanced with how hard it is the pull the pan / tap it if it would start to leak again.
3rd option. use an oversize, or maybe a course thread bolt or metric) and see if you can get it to tighten. As long as you don't break the bolt off, you can still drill /tap if it won't tighten.
then i'd go for the helicoil. . .
Hell I somehow blew a sparkplug out the back of the head ( in the back) on my old 94 gran prix. They have a special set that includes a tap, and new insert. I had a severly scratched up hand, and I may have carpel tunnel from snaking my hand back there to run the new tap through, but that repair lasted another 10k miles till I sold it.
just take your time, keep it straight, and keep backing the tap out to clear the material. I also like to use grease to help hold in the small shavings.
Well, I finished up last night. HiRoller offered his services, but first I went with the advice of chasing a tap and seeing if there are more threads left in the unused portion. For whatever reason, there were a bunch of post bolts used for the oil pan, some of which were for securing coolant lines, etc. Others, however, were unused. I turned it around, used the long end (about 1/2 in longer than the end that tightened the pan down) and it caught the remainder of threads.
Unfortunately, I'm still leaking a tiny bit of oil down the front of the transmission from the back of the oil pan. i think I'll just RTV the $hit of things down there. I hate having to keep wood under the Jeep to soak up the oil.
Glad you got it solved, I hate oil pan gaskets, especially when your laying on your back trying to make it all line up. Luckly Fel-pro came out with a rubber 1 piece gaskets for SBC's that works wonders, but not sure how the jeeps are....
If I were you i'd try and slightly drop the rear of the pan drop down, clean as much of the oil you can out with brake-cleaner and go wild with the atv.
Might try and tightening it a bit down before you do that. It might stop the leak, you just want to make sure not to overtighten and ruin the gasket.
