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Topic: Going to look at another...

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Going to look at another...

Well, since the last XJ I went and looked at wasn't that great, I'm going to look at another today. Now, the price tag is set 1750 higher than the last one, but I guess it's true when they say you get what you pay for (I hope the 2x price tag means at least 2x quality over the last one biggrin)

So, this one is a 1995 and it's the Country package. Sadly, it's not a 5 speed, and it has power everything which were 2 things I wasn't looking for.

Anyways, the good. It only has 88k miles and it was owned by an older guy (Vietnam vet.) Sounds like he's taken good care of it. He's selling it because he's moving to Florida I guess. He said that it doesn't have any rust, and the only thing he's aware of that's wrong with it is the front passenger seat is kinda tore up (got a new puppy left him in there while he went in the store.) And the seats are leather, he said the estimate from a local place was $110 to fix it.

Anyways, what things should I be looking for on the 1995 models? The general stuff I already got told about in my other thread.

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Ya, look for rust on the floor boards on the under side. Sounds like a pritty good deal for the miles.  Is he the only owner or just the most recent?

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Well, I was sleeping my dad woke me up this morning about 9 to tell me about it, so I just had him call. I don't believe he asked. We're heading over there in about 2 hours though.

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I have a '95 country and it is a very good jeep and the power everything comes in handy almost every day i drive my jeep

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Sorry, I don't remember, but are you looking for a DD or a DD/Weekend Wheeler? Just curious because the automatic transmission will make wheeling a little more enjoyable. Not that you can't enjoy a manual, but ask Lead_Not _Follow about "achy clutch foot/leg".

Good luck anyway!!!

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Well picked it up for $2950. Only things about it are that the muffler was hitting the rear drive shaft (loosened the muffler twisted it and fixed that), the rear brakes aren't working (?), and it might need a catalytic converter (but then again we might just take that off and run a straight pipe.)

Also, quick question, what's the average operating temp on em'? Mine hovers around 210 when driving, then when I'm idling (in drive) it heats almost to the white line before the red on the temp gauge, and then another fan (?) kicks in and it drops it between the middle (210) line and the white line before the red... seems a bit high, is this normal?

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Also, looking for a DD/wheeler. 3" lift 31" tires?

Anyways, assuming it has power mirrors, where's the controls for them? There's also a connector for the ABS that just hangs there, nothing visibly obvious to hook it to. The guy I bought it from said the previous owner had ran the engine down to 1 qt. of oil, so he put one it in from the same year, just with less miles, he says 79k vs the 88k on the body. Anyways, is it possible that the engine he replaced it with was in a Jeep without ABS, so it wouldn't have the ABS connector?

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It shouldn't run much if any past the 210 mark. Only time I'd consider it "normal" to be past that mark is on the trails after being ou there awhile and having run your Jeep all day long. Just not a lot of moving fast to keep cool air in it like you are on the road. The 4.0L does run "hot" compaired to other motors, but I would consider just about anything past the 210 mark "hot" on this one.

ABS is done by a pump located up by the firewall. Motor should have nothing to do with it. If it's not on there I personally wouldn't try to get it going, as the ABS system on them in my opinion is less than desirable.

Power mirror controls are located on the front of the center consol right about the e-brake handel.

As for the lift and 31's; I'd really consider going with a quality lift and only doing it once. Rubicon Express makes nice high quality stuff. The RE 3.5" lift will easily fit 31's under it. We ran my wife's XJ with the RE 3.5" and 31's for quite awhile and it was/is her daily driver.

Motion offers free shipping and free shocks on the XJ RE 3.5" lift.

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Any idea why it would run so hot? I've heard water pump, water thermostat, clogged radiator etc... One guy said to open the radiator cap while it's cool and start it to see if it flows to check that it's not clogged. Anything else you can think of?

And when the air is on and you accelerate it makes that really high pitched squealing noise, sounds like an over tightened belt, or a belt rubbing on something. Is it a belt, if so which one is it usually and if not what else would make the sound?

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Also, on that 3.5" RE lift do you have to lengthen/reroute (brake lines) or anything like that?

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Yodwinder wrote:
Also, on that 3.5" RE lift do you have to lengthen/reroute (brake lines) or anything like that?

The RE 3.5" XJ Kits (thier are 4 available, some include AAL's) comes with a new rear brake line included in the kit. As for the front you can simply undo the stock mounting tab located by the shock, bend the hard line straight, and move it over about 2-3" (thier is another hole there). You'll gain about 5" in length doing it this way and won't need to buy new front lines. It's about a 10 min job tops.

Of if you like, you can always get longer front lines. However I'd say unless your wheeling your rig really "hard-core" you can get away with the above steps.


 



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Guest
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Alright I'll go take a look at those lifts some time.

So.. I went out and did what that one guy said. Took off the radiator cap, turned it on and let it run. Bad news, it didn't really seem to flow as much as it did just leak out and get REALLY rusty. I have radiator flush, would this take care of it?

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Well, I looked at the lifts, I don't want an AAL, I've heard the stores. So I have 2 choices.

Choice One

Choice Two

What's the real differences between the two?



-- Edited by Yodwinder at 11:29, 2008-07-16

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Yodwinder wrote:
Well, I looked at the lifts, I don't want an AAL, I've heard the stores. So I have 2 choices.


Choice One

Choice Two

What's the real differences between the two?


One is the Super Ride and one is the Super Flex. What is the difference between the SR and SF?

The SF has control arms that have a flex joint on one end. This allows for better flex offroad. The SR has rubber bushings on both ends and will not flex as good offroad and is geared more towards the daily driver people. By no means can you not drive the SF kit on the road daily, many many of our customers do (including ourself).

The SF kit also includes Gen. 2 swaybar quick disco's. The SR kit does not.

The SF kit also includes a set of front bumpstops. The SR kit does not include any bumpstops.

So to recap, the Super Flex kit includes swaybar discos, front bumpstops, and the lower control arms with the flex joint over the Super Ride kit (hince the price difference).

 



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Well, once I get the cash saved up I'll probably opt for the SuperFlex.

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