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Topic: Clutch fan , Should I keep or go Electric

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xjryder
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Clutch fan , Should I keep or go Electric
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MPG are on everones mind should I get rid of clutch fan
, replace it with dual electric fans
, and should I go with a pully kit? Would that would help TEMP too?

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LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
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The ONLY electric fan I've been able to find that puts out the same CFM is a high end Spal fan; with a price tag of over $200.

A properly working factory fan/clutch puts out a lot of CSM and your going to be hard pressed to find a fan that will be as effective.

If your not running a fan shroud, put on one as it helps a lot.

If your wanting keep your engine cooler, put your aux. fan on a switch so you can turn it on when you want to.

Proper temp for the 4.0L is right at 210deg. Running anything lower than that will hinder milage/performance. Your best bet to keep temps down is to run a CSF 3-core radiator and than get a high-flow t-stat housing and water pump.  I would also run nothing cooler than a 180deg. t-stat.

For on the trail a set of hood vents works wonders to help get the heat out of the engine bay.

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xjryder
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thanks That gives me a new list, and I just cut the holes and mounted the vents I am excited to see how it helps

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Yodwinder
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LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW wrote:

The ONLY electric fan I've been able to find that puts out the same CFM is a high end Spal fan; with a price tag of over $200.

A properly working factory fan/clutch puts out a lot of CSM and your going to be hard pressed to find a fan that will be as effective.

If your not running a fan shroud, put on one as it helps a lot.

If your wanting keep your engine cooler, put your aux. fan on a switch so you can turn it on when you want to.

Proper temp for the 4.0L is right at 210deg. Running anything lower than that will hinder milage/performance. Your best bet to keep temps down is to run a CSF 3-core radiator and than get a high-flow t-stat housing and water pump. I would also run nothing cooler than a 180deg. t-stat.

For on the trail a set of hood vents works wonders to help get the heat out of the engine bay.


I'm thinking that next paycheck I'll be getting the CSF from MO, and I've never heard of a highflow therm housing or waterpump, do these actually make a big difference? And the guy at Autozone gave me a 160 therm when the manual says 195, incompetent tards up there (actually they've given me the right things whenever I've went up there except for that time.)

And also, my grandpa has a louvre presser for aluminum. He says he thinks the max it can press is 24 guage aluminum (don't know if guage is the right measurement for alumuminum but hey, who cares) , do you think this would be thick enough to run, and what do you think about powdercoating? If I did do this, how much does dielectric grease run?

 



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LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
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I run the LaBarron hood vents on all my rigs with great results.

I also run a high-flow t-stat housing (see pic below) as well as a high-flow alum. waterpump. The t-stat housing made a huge difference in getting more fluid in. The new high-flow waterpump helps that cause. I also run the 3-core CSF radiator with some high dollar BRX silicon hoses.

I'd run minimal a 180deg. t-stat; that 160 you have in there now is just going to cause you problems...

I converted my closed system to an open system and with with a lot of high dollar $$$ parts when I did it. You can read my write-up by CLICKING HERE on that conversion.


-- Edited by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW at 23:25, 2008-07-27

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ChevelleSSLS6
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Some guys (on NAXJA and JeepsUnlimited) use ford taurus fans.  They can be run as a single speed or a dual speed (how FoMoCo did it).  See link for a how-to.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTaurusFanInstall1.htm

you can buy my taurus fan... if some NAXJA guy doesn't... or I could go find you one if you're serious.smile
http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/index.spark?forumID=43793&p=3&topicID=18871739


Edit: you can get a high flow thermostat from HESCO.  http://www.hescosc.com/






-- Edited by ChevelleSSLS6 at 02:55, 2008-07-29

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Spanky
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Hello new here just today. Can I use this ford taurus efan in place of my factory efan. I think it might run cooler. my temp run 210* and creep up when idling. I replace everything. the whole heating system is new. except the 2 hoses. Thank any help will be great.

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ChevelleSSLS6
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I'd recommend if you don't know when the hoses were replaced (in the past couple years) then you should replace the hoses as well just so you know it's not going to fail on you.

Click on the links I posted earlier for a how-to on the taurus fan. It goes where the factory mechanical fan goes, and the stock efan is left alone. It installs 'sideways' and you can block off the portion that hangs below the radiator (so the fan pulls all the air through the radiator) or put a transmission cooler down there.

As for radiators, I love mine... a heavy duty one from modine (now proliance I think). It helped a lot... but it could be from that the old rad 'fins' were falling out, the water pump was junk, and I used a high flow thermostat housing from the folks at Hesco. Next time I pull the rad out I'm replacing the napa water pump with a hesco or flow-kooler unit.

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My Fleet
1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project.
2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
Comet #2
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LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW wrote:

The ONLY electric fan I've been able to find that puts out the same CFM is a high end Spal fan; with a price tag of over $200.

A properly working factory fan/clutch puts out a lot of CSM and your going to be hard pressed to find a fan that will be as effective.

If your not running a fan shroud, put on one as it helps a lot.

If your wanting keep your engine cooler, put your aux. fan on a switch so you can turn it on when you want to.

Proper temp for the 4.0L is right at 210deg. Running anything lower than that will hinder milage/performance. Your best bet to keep temps down is to run a CSF 3-core radiator and than get a high-flow t-stat housing and water pump.  I would also run nothing cooler than a 180deg. t-stat.

For on the trail a set of hood vents works wonders to help get the heat out of the engine bay.


Gotta agree with L N F on all that.

Be careful though - that the hi flow pump and hi flow thermostat housing and a better radiator doesnt allow too much flow ... which can actually reduce cooling ... as the coolant doesnt stay in the radiator long enough.

Best fuel economy is achieved with the stinking hot temps the XJ runs at ... every degree the temp is dropped by improving the cooling safety margin - means a poofteenth of a mpg you lose.

Once you start running below 180' temps the differences are very noticable.

Ideally - a high cfm dual electric system, constantly running, that maintained a steady temp would probably also resolve the issue of needing vents in the bonnet.

A constant airflow - rather than the on again / off again ... clutch fan / thermo fan cycle would minimise the hot air build under the bonnet IMHO.

Rather than mess around with electrics ... Ive settled on beginning experiments with fan clutch varieties ... and a bypass control on the factory electric fan is a must as far as I am concerned.



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