I did this a while ago, and just now I'm doing a writeup on it.
First, you need some tools and supplies. *3/4" (I think) wrench *six quarts of oil (only five are shown, why I do not know) *an extra quart (half quart I think is the actual amount you'll need) if you use a larger oil filter (look one up for a 1980s Ford 302 and that's it!) *oil drain pan *new oil filter *a rag, and maybe some kitty litter if the drain pan is misplaced. *Jack and stands or ramps if yours is at stock height or want extra room. (not shown) *Grease gun (not shown)
Under the belly of the Jeep (I just crawl under it as 2" of lift provides adequate clearance for me to wiggle around under it.) this is the oil drain bolt. Of course you turn it counterclockwise to loosen it. Once it's loosened a little it can be removed by hand. Make sure your drain pan is in place under and slightly behind this bolt. If you're using a jack, use stands to support the Jeep. If you're using ramps or stands, use a block of wood to chock the wheels on the ground.
As the oil is draining, you might have to move the drain pan a little to avoid spillage. (Off topic: Bike in backgound is the 1977 Honda CB550f ss that I sold to a collector)
Grease the zerk fittings like the one shown here on the front driveshaft. You'll also find them in the upper and lower ball joints by the front tire, all sorts of steering and suspension parts, and possibly universal joints.
By now the oil should be done draining. Put the oil drain bolt back in snugly but not too tightly as they will strip out easily. Wipe any oil residue away and move drain pan under oil filter. Topside now, the oil filter is way down there somewhere past air conditioning lines and vaccum lines.
Make sure the old gasket comes off with the old oil filter. Drain pan moved out from under jeep for clarity of photo.
Here's the new oil filter. I don't recommend Fram as I've had a no oil pressure situation remedied by replacing the filter, and many others have had similar issues. Run a online search. Anyway, I fill the filter up with fresh oil (it'll soak into the filter media and into the space 'outside' the center where the oil is poured so fill the middle right up) to minimise oiless-run time. If you are using aforementioned larger oil filter, I really recommend this. Don't forget to dab a little of the fresh oil onto the gasket just so it shines a little. This will prevent leaks and the gasket sticking to the engine upon removal at a later date.
Given a minute the oil level in the filter will go down from being absorbed into the filter media so it'll be easier to manuver around. Lower it down into the depths, and screw in place. Tighten 1/2 turn after gasket contacts oil filter mount.
Fill with oil (6 quarts stock filter, ~6.5 quarts with the larger filter.), check brake fluid, coolant, tire pressure, and air filter. 10w-30 is factory, but they were out of that at the parts store, so 10w-40 was used.
Check oil just to be safe, and if it's a smidgen over the 'safe' area, it's okay right now.
Remove oil drain pan and empty it at a local quickie lube or auto parts store later.
Start Jeep and make sure oil pressure gets a good reading (20psi or more at idle) give it a few seconds, then shut engine off.
Re-check oil. Oil level should be in safe zone. Engine shouldn't be leaking oil out from anywhere (besides the usual spots since it's a Jeep and they leak when they get old).
Clean up, drop off oil at appropriate location, and you're good to go!
-- Edited by ChevelleSSLS6 at 19:29, 2009-01-08
-- Edited by ChevelleSSLS6 at 19:31, 2009-01-08
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My Fleet 1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods. I hate pegleg rear axles! 1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project. 2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD