Well the typical luck - on the driver side I can get 5 of the 6 torqs off. I can't get the bottom hinge (bottom bolt) to move. I can get the torq head on and trying to use a wrench on it to turn the torq bolt but no luck. Will try soaking the bolt, in hopes that will do something. If not, anyone have any suggestions to get this bolt off? Such a great area to work in too - can't really get many tools to fit in that area.
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07 Powerwagon, pretty much stock besides Line X bedliner and dual exhaust. Quad cab, fully loaded (minus nav), etc
92 XJ sport, 33" boggers, 4.56 gears, rear locker, more to add
07 Arctic Cat 400 4x4, lockers front and rear, 2500lb MM winch
This happend on when removing MysticfireXJ's doors. We ended up cutting the head off of the bolt with a dremel or grinding wheel and taking the door off. I think that we had to cut the head down in a "#" style (making cross cut down one direction and then the other, not just cutting the head off in one swoop). Making multiple cuts until the head was useless and we could just pull the hinge off. After having the door off we tried to get on the stud with some wrenches but were unable to get it off. When we put the door back on, only used 2 bolts and it held just fine. So if it is just one that is causing you problems cut the head off and forget about it. We had no noticable side effects from having only 2 of the 3 bolts. Pick your battles, and in this case I don't think that it is worth the struggle to have all 3 bolts.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
well the battle was a draw. I did cut and chissle the bolt off, but the jeep took some of flesh and blood. To the point I almost debated going to the hospital due to the way it cut. lol - got the bleed to stop for now
So now onto the passenger door
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07 Powerwagon, pretty much stock besides Line X bedliner and dual exhaust. Quad cab, fully loaded (minus nav), etc
92 XJ sport, 33" boggers, 4.56 gears, rear locker, more to add
07 Arctic Cat 400 4x4, lockers front and rear, 2500lb MM winch
Gee imagine this - I was only able to get one bolt off on the passenger side. The rest are very tight. Going to soak it ever day when I get home from work, and try it again in 4 days.
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07 Powerwagon, pretty much stock besides Line X bedliner and dual exhaust. Quad cab, fully loaded (minus nav), etc
92 XJ sport, 33" boggers, 4.56 gears, rear locker, more to add
07 Arctic Cat 400 4x4, lockers front and rear, 2500lb MM winch
I ended up cutting a "torx" socket down to fit in there with a breaker bar. I think I went threw 3-4 of them getting them off as I'd bend them since I cut it down (aka cut the strength out of it). Go to the hardware store and replace all the bolts with a grade 8 hex head bolt that you can than just put a wrench on later if you need to do it again. It's worth the $10 in hardware to save yourself a headache later...
Pics of Randy's door...
-- Edited by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW on Friday 20th of March 2009 08:01:38 PM
take a closer look at lead's door hinge pictured there.
the bottom of the hinge is cut off.
this is to make removable doors.
cut it off, tap it off, on upper and lower door hinges each side....then use your air chisel or a hammer and punch to pop the little piece that you cut off DOWN off the body-side hinge.
then remove the door carefully...you may need to cut the bottom 1/4" off the upper pin to get it to remove (or it may make the door skin contact the fender skin where it joins the A-pillar.
punch out all collar pins.
drill out hole to fit a fine thread grade 8 stainless bolt of the next available size, or find one the same size if you can.
insert bolt through top of door side of the hinge.
now you can drop it on and off at your leisure, and put a nut on one or both latches to keep them installed if you wish. remember to grease thoroughly.
Several year production models from 84-96 had the pass side pin pressed in from the bottom. So you have to remove the hinge to get the door off, than weld a new pin in. So just cutting them will not work on every year.
driver side done - will post a pic shortly for decision on how low to cut. Yep - had to trim about 1/4" off the top pin for door to be removable. lol, and yep - my passenger door the pin is set up to go down, not up.
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07 Powerwagon, pretty much stock besides Line X bedliner and dual exhaust. Quad cab, fully loaded (minus nav), etc
92 XJ sport, 33" boggers, 4.56 gears, rear locker, more to add
07 Arctic Cat 400 4x4, lockers front and rear, 2500lb MM winch
If the bolt is stripped out try getting a long drill and drilling it out. I have several 15 inch long drill bits for just this purpose. I would find the one that is as big or pretty close to the size of the torx bolt and drill it out. Once the head is gone you will have to use heat/vice grips or a left handed drill bit to extract the old bolt. Its sucks but consider the alternative of getting a good slice in your hand/finger which will take weeks to heal VS taking some time to remove an old bolt. I'm for the latter. I'm not sure if this would have helped on your situation being a door hinge in all. I was also thinking if you could take the door panel off and maybe get a torch into the door say thru the speaker hole and warm it up from the inside.
-- Edited by tjhawk on Sunday 22nd of March 2009 09:53:50 PM
-- Edited by tjhawk on Sunday 22nd of March 2009 09:54:51 PM
I would go a little bit higher than even the top tape line. In my personal opinion I would want to be able to put my arm on the door. So maybe sit in the XJ and try to cut it as low as you can, with still being able to rest your arm on it.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.