So I finally got time to do the 3.5 RE kit I just purchased. Here are some things I ran across for those looking to do the same.
My Jeep-93 XJ sport, 4.0 with automatic. The kit- RE 3.5 inch lift w/new leafs
My first impression was that this kit was reasonably priced. The directions were at best lack luster. More like reading a cooking recipie than a lift kit how to. The pictures were good but there were only 4. I had to use some shims to calm down my pinion angle. I 'm glad I had them leftover from project CJ-7. They said you might have to install the x-fer case drop kit. Might have to should just have been like saying you will need to. I used some homemade bushings and longer bolts. The rear springs were kind of stupid. You have to file out the alignment hole in your spring perch to make it fit. Also the rear bolts only come out facing in so unless you remove the gas tank you aint getting them out. I used a sawzall and got new bolts. I wanted graded ones anyways. I only broke two bolts which surprised me as it has only seen 4 WI winters. One was a shock bolt and the other was a nut from my skid plate. I used tons of WD-40 and alot of propane torch heat. The front springs were easy on the pass side but I had to use a spring comprtessor for the driver side. Getting the upper control arms back in and aligned for the bolt sucked. The track bar hole relocate was probably the easiest part of the entire job. My only real complaint about the kit is that the rear sits up about 2 inches higher than the front. Looks a bit too much. Maybe it will sit lower when I put my 2 billion lbs of trail gear in the back and the spare tire. I used hydraulic shocks because I got them for free. They work great but ride a tad rough. Maybe it be better as things settle in. I will probably see about getting some nitro charged ones in the future. I remember reading somewhere on here that the SYE and using an XJ front driveshaft cures my need to drop the transfercase. Is this all I need to do? I would really like to stuff my trans/x-fercase back up where it belongs not hanging down waiting for a rock to smash it. I used my stock rims and put on BFG mud terrains. I got 4 for $50! My speedo may need a different gear. How much difference should I see VS stock?
All in all I am VERY HAPPY with the kit. Jeep looks great and for the most part rides and handles better than I thought it would. I will post a pic tomorrow.
Wow mine just dropped in. No real big probs. RE springs will give more than advertised height. Mine have not setteled yet. The more weight you carry the softer the ride.
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99 sport. rust bucket, DD, 3 car seats 04 wj (w/3 car seats too) DD duty for the lady
I wanted to take a pic today but I ran out of time...possibly tomorrow.
Also my drag link has a pretty obscene angle on it now. Would getting a dropped pitman be the answer to calming my steering wander/bump steer? I know all lifted vehicles have inharent bump steer issues I am just looking to help it be the best it can be.
Yeah I got a deal on the BFG's thats for sure. Now I got a deal on a set of street tires/rims as well so I just use my mud terrains on the trail. Cross my fingers I will be going out on a Memorial day ride and I hope all goes well.
You should NEVER have to use a drop pitman arm on an XJ. DPAs should ONLY be used if you're lowering the trackbar mount on the frame, or raising it on the axle, otherwise it will CAUSE bumpsteer. The whole belief that you need a drop pitman arm with a lift has been perpetuated from the days of leaf sprung vehicles without trackbars. On these vehicles you wanted to keep the angle of the draglink as flat as possible to minimize bumpsteer. On vehicles with a trackbar (like your MJ), you want to keep the draglink as parallel to the trackbar as possible to minimize bumpsteer. With a DPA, your making it worse. A dropped pitman arm will also increase the amount of torque/axial loading on the shaft your steering box experiences. If you've ever talked to anyone who's running larger tires and had a frame failure to the steering box mounting area, they'll be the first to tell you that you don't want to do anything to put more stress on the steering box...
ok so here are some picts....it could have been better weather outside but oh well.
The chrome rims have Bridgestone Duellers on them and my stock XJ rims have the Mud T/A's. That way I'm not wearingout my off road tires on the street.
On the DPA note....yeah I did get most of my info from my past expierence with my 85 CJ. I got the drag link almost paralell with the tie bar and I could hit a monster pothole and it never bump steered. Also the steering rack on my racecar is almost flat inline with the tie rod ends and if I hit the rumplestrip or any other variation in the track and it will never give me negative feedback or an unwanted responce.
My Stable: 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4 Dr Sport 4 1/2" lift w/ 33X12.50 Maxxis Bighorns 1990 Chevy Suburban 3/4 ton 2WD w/454 Big Block(future towrig) 2005 Pont. Grand Prix GTP (supercharged 4 my passing pleasure) 2006 H-D Street Bob Flat black denim with some goodies 1989 Stratos 18' Fish&Ski w/ Evinrude outboard 1996 Yamaha V Max snowmobile-600cc 2006 GMC Envoy find me at facebook.com (Jason Grumpp)
Looks good. If you got a SYE you would be able to take the TC drop off.
If you are looking to level it out, you could pick up some 1" spacers for the front. They are reasonably cheap. I think between $50-80. Might want to decide this before you get your shocks though. It might change what size you get if you get new ones.
With the speedo, what size of tires are you going to run? I think that with my 31's at 55 on the speedo I was going closer to 60-63. With the 33's I think that it was about 10 mph over at 55. Someone else might be able to tell you more definite. I have changed the gears in mine, so they no longer read stock.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
Thanks guys. Yeah I was thinking about the spacers but really would like the back end to settle down and level it out. I was thinking about maybe using a few tractor weights...lol.
yeah I am hoping to get the SYE kit next as my trans cross member looks totally stupid with my home made stainless steel pipe spacers. They work good but look dumb...lol.
The green color isn't original. I had a more emerald green metallic originaly but when I repainted it (due to the fact that the AZ sun attacked it 300 days a year for the better part of 10 years) I decided to go darker so this color is actually a color from a 1999 Dakota/Ram/Caravan and I like it much better.
As for the speedo gear can I buy one and where? BTW Andy thanks for the shocks, They fit great and work well. Hopefully I'm gonna get a little mud on the tires this Memorial day with my local Jeep club.
Your RE lift will always sit "butt high". Only way to make it sit "leval" is with a spacer in the front. Or if you throw an aftermarket bumper on the back with a full size spare it may settle down a bit.
Here is the wife's (Dogwonk) XJ with RE 3.5" Superflex and it's still sitting "butt high" 4 years later.
I'm guessing with the rear if you really want it level... you could remove a leaf and see how it sits... replace and remove a different one, repeat as necessary.
I'm just worried about bustin' bolts and stuff with my install... I have no welder so I can't cut open the subframe and weld it closed if need be. I'd have to drive it around (to welding shop) like that.
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My Fleet 1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods. I hate pegleg rear axles! 1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project. 2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
you don't want to remove a leaf from the kit, you'll ride "butt low" you don't want that unless your workin on a 6-4 Impala Rebecca's Jeep has a real nice stance to it in person-photos don't do it real justice. If anything I do what Adam mentioned above and add the spacers to the front. I'd go through and PB blast everything. The only bolts i broke doing mine was the rear shock upper mount bolts, had to drill and retap. The welder/torches were never needed during my install.
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My Stable: 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4 Dr Sport 4 1/2" lift w/ 33X12.50 Maxxis Bighorns 1990 Chevy Suburban 3/4 ton 2WD w/454 Big Block(future towrig) 2005 Pont. Grand Prix GTP (supercharged 4 my passing pleasure) 2006 H-D Street Bob Flat black denim with some goodies 1989 Stratos 18' Fish&Ski w/ Evinrude outboard 1996 Yamaha V Max snowmobile-600cc 2006 GMC Envoy find me at facebook.com (Jason Grumpp)
I busted almost all of them doing Nick's XJ while he was in Iraq. I had to cut the frame just enough to get the bolt out. I was able to install it just fine after that, no welding needed. It would be a good idea to weld the hole closed, but as far as I know this still has not been done on Nicks. The hole that was cut was just big enough to get the bolt out. Maybe the size of a half dollar or so.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.