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Topic: SYE installed...my thoughts.

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SYE installed...my thoughts.

SO I took a few hours on Friday and installed my new SYE I got from a 4x4 parts house in Kenosha (WI). I chose them because they had the part, it was relatively in- expensive and they could ship in a day. I ordered on Wed got it Thurs AM. So as I start to take apart my case halves ect I was surprised that with all the wheeling I have done over the last 16 years that the chain, sproket and gears were in very good shape. The magnet had very little metal on it(mostly dust like shavings) and there was not a trace of anything (like dirt) inside the case. As I started my conversion I realised that there were a few things the directions had not told me.

1. My 93 t-case which was built on 7-2-92 is considered an "early style" case. This would make things a bit more challenging as I got deepeer into the retrofit.

2. I had to press out my very nice caged needle bearings and opt for a new plain bearing to take its place as the replacement shaft was thicker. Its wasn't too tough so I did it. The fit was nice. I used a bit of grease as prelube and installed the shift collar and synchro assy with the new snap ring they privided.

3. I cleaned my case halves spotless with mineral spirits and used a razor blade to remove any excess left over silicone from the factory.
 
4. I chose to use prematex ultra grey as it looks better as it is the same color of the case. This is just a personal choice. Ultra Black or copper work just as well as the only thing different is color.

5. As I fitted my case halves together I noticed that the shift shaft was protruding quite a bit further than my new snout could house. A quick measure with a calipers and I found it was 0.82 too long.  I quickly re read the directions and they say nothing about what to so if it is too long. A quick Google search found my answer. The shaft had to be shortened. I used my dye grinder and a cut off wheel. I started at .75 and file fit(via the cutoff wheel) the rest. Checking constantly to get the closetst tollenences without taking too much.

6. I finally got the snout on and realised that I was out of ATF. I had to go to Walmart( its the only place around here that is open 24 hours.)

7. After a trip and a fill I was ready to pre lube my chain and shaft. I purposely left out the rear shaft thinking it would spin (which drives the oil pump) but without a load so it would be like a prelube. I placed the shifter back into 2 hi ( I had it in 4 lo originally)
and shafted into drive. The vehicle lurched forward and I was glad I had chocked the wheels. I thought that the linkage was off as maybe it looked like it was in 2 hi but was really 4 hi. I cheacked it and even took out all the play. Still it was driving the front shaft.

8. Being totally perplexed I took it around the block via FWD mode(rear shaft still being out) and it drove badly like I expected it to. Corners were felt through the steering wheel ( I am guessing I have a u joint on the way out) making it feel like I was fighting for control. It was a severe way to drive. I am glad I live on a very short block. Another thing that was strange was that I had no speedo reading either.

9. I measured my front shaft and found out that YES IT WILL FIT IN THE REAR with about .75 inch left of extension which is good enough for testing on a flat surface. After fighting off the mosquitoes I got the front shaft in the rear and went for another drive. NOW my speedo works and it feels like it should again. I parked it and crawled under and grabbed the front yoke from the transfercase. It still feels engaged and I dont know why. My axle has no vacuum servo( it never did from the factory-I bought it new) so I am guessing that the front shaft is always turning and when you are in
4x4 mode it just applies power to that shaft. So I guess I am wondering what the heck is going on here. I have another front shaft I am going to install tomorrow in hopes of it turning and disengaging the front axle. I am hoping that I won't feel that fimilliar "hop" of the front fighting the rear like if you try to turn on dry pavement in 4WD. Has anyone got any insite as to WTF is going on. I have all gears working and the part time light comes on in 4 hi and low and is off in 2wd and neutral.

no

-- Edited by tjhawk on Sunday 21st of June 2009 12:41:46 AM

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I guess that I don't know what you are asking....


I will say that when my brother busted my stock DS on pavement (it is a manual, and he used to drive one everyday.  He later told me that the xj was real fun always PEALING out.  It had 31's on it too... It is my guess that he was dropping the clutch evileye.  That was the last time that he drove my XJ. matrixfight.gif )  After he did that, I pulled the rear DS and drove it home in 4wd.  Useing just the front tires.  Mine was an '88 manual tranny.  So I think that it is something that they all will do if you NEED them too.  Don't know if any of that helps you problem, but thought that I would share.

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Guest
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What I am saying is that when I am selected in 2 hi I am really in 4 hi and I don't know why. Currently I am driving with the front shaft in the rear and my other front shaft is removed so I can at least drive decently. If I decide to go wheeling before I get it fixed I will just have to install the shaft at the trail head and remove it before I go home. A real pain in the arse but I don't want to go thru all the trouble again until I have a definate answer as to what I could have done.

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It was the spring that pushes the shift fork back into position. I gave it a little extra stretching and stuffed it back together. Now it works great no more stuck in 4wd problem. I even shifted it a few times to make extra sure before I put it back together. Thanks for all the info guys

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Glad that you are back to normal.

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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's
'11 Dodge Charger

I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.

*Support our Troops*


My Pics and Specs

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