Wanting to know if this is an "acceptable" fix for my power window lock issue. I found in the connector the yellow with a green tracer is the power to the connector. A larger gauge yellow wire is apparently feeds power to the passengerside, and both rear windows. There seems to be a problem in the connector as I can wiggle the yellow wire and get power to it, but not constantly. The window lock switch will cut power to the yellow wire.
I made a RED jumper wire to go from the yellow/green wire to the yellow wire and have constant power. All the window switches will work with this jumper in. All it appears to have done is bypass the lock switch, or connection problem in the connector itself. Can anyone see a problem with doing this? I don't want to have a fire/short issue.
Here's a pic of what I did. I didn't leave the jumper in until I got some feedback for someone that knows more about this than I do.
We have the same problem with Rebecca's XJ (1993 model) and I have yet to mess with it (jump it) as I have the same questions.
I do not see why it wouldn't solve the issue though. Can you tell if it's just a single trow double pole switch or is it more complicated than that?
Adam,
I didn't get into the switch itself so I can't answer what type of switch it is.
I don't know if the '93 is wired exactly like the '00. On my '00 there are 2 connectors hooked up to the "master switch console" on the drivers door. The smaller UPPER conector operates the power mirrors, and the window lock switch. Since it controls the lock switch it also "controls" the other 3 door's window switches.
There is a yellow/green wire that is supplying power to the connector that powers the mirrors, and the lock switch (passengerside, and rear windows). There is a yellow wire (larger gauge) than the yellow/green that supplies power to the other 3 windows. Apparently there is a problem with my lock switch not passing power to the yellow wire and allowing the other 3 window switches to work. I stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of both, and attached a jumper between the two. It appears it bypasses the window lock switch, and allows power to the other three door's window switches.
Please note that I could always operate all the windows from the drivers door switches before I jumped the window lock.
Hope this helps.
-- Edited by firehawk on Sunday 5th of July 2009 08:35:02 PM
Thank you.. Yes this is a fix I have been trying to figure out for about a year now. I'll be the lab rat and let you know if I burn my rig to the ground. I believe a fire will not be a problem the jumper wire may burn, and it may also destroy the switch. This is not a problem though being that the next fix would be replacing the whole thing. Nice work.
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99 sport. rust bucket, DD, 3 car seats 04 wj (w/3 car seats too) DD duty for the lady
Thank you.. Yes this is a fix I have been trying to figure out for about a year now. I'll be the lab rat and let you know if I burn my rig to the ground. I believe a fire will not be a problem the jumper wire may burn, and it may also destroy the switch. This is not a problem though being that the next fix would be replacing the whole thing. Nice work.
UPDATE to my original post!!!!
The connector that controls the window lock ALSO powers the power mirrors. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON DEPRESSED!! We went to work yesterday and everything worked fine. When we got back the passenger side front and both rear window would not work. Neither would the power mirrors. I found that the fuse for the power mirrors (a 10 amp fuse) was blown. Only thing I can figure happened was with the window lock switch in the up postion the bad connector or switch made contact and fed power back thru the connector I have the jumper wire on. Somehow it must have shorted something out and blew the fuse.
I replaced the blown fuse and everything works fine. I'll keep everyone updated if this happens again with the switch depressed. If it does, I'll remove the jumper wire and live with it for now, until I can find a replacement "console" for the drivers door.