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Topic: stuck axle nut- REALLY! With Pics!

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stuck axle nut- REALLY! With Pics!

Drivers side axle u-joint is replaced.  New bearing/hub assemblies aren't in the budget so they'll have to wait until spring.  So I have the 30-whatever mm axle nut on the passenger side.  It is STUCK.  PB blaster, heat, pb, heat, 1/2" drive socket with 3 foot cheater bar with me standing (and bouncing a little) on the end.

Well, something had to break.doh

Enjoy the pics and post any ideas...
-matt


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1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
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i had this problem when i had to do drivers side u joint but when we bounced on the cheater bar the nut moved. thought for sure sumthing was gunna break we also had a 3/4 in socket set we borrowed fom one of my friends


-- Edited by Bensxj on Wednesday 4th of November 2009 04:51:43 PM

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Are the nuts on the passenger side reverse rotation?

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My Fleet
1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project.
2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD

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No, not reverse threaded...  The laws of physics say that if you heat the spindle, it will expand making the grip of the nut tighter, however, if you heat it and allow it to cool, it should expand enough to compress the rust and corrosion between the nut and spindle, thus creating a gap when cooled and allowing you to break it free.

In my experiance, I've found that using a smaller flame and heating only the nut and giving it a wrench while still hot, is more effective.  But I guess not everyone has a mini blow torch...

I HATE to use them, but you might try the heat again and use an impact wrench...  The vibration might help break it...

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The only way to get thru the rust that that salt has caused is to use an impact. Turn it on low and just let it vibrate slowly. After a few buzzs then turn it up and let her rip. Do this while the nut(only) is still hot. I have never seen a axle shaft break in this way. I have busted off plenty of stuff(like lug studs for example) using a cheater bar and jumping on it. I don't know why some people on here are afraid of an impact or air tools. I spent 14 years using them as a mechanic and they were my best friend. They saved me from many beat up knuckles and having arthritus in my hand by age 35.(like my buddy Tom who is an old school mechanic from the 50's.) If you don't have air tools then call your local shop and ask them if they would just break the nut loose for you or if it will cost you a few bucks. I remember once I zipped loose a stuck harmonic balancer nut for a guy in the parking lot of the shop I worked at.

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tjhawk wrote:
I remember once I zipped loose a stuck harmonic balancer nut for a guy in the parking lot of the shop I worked at.


 Awww, you're such a nice guy....  You helped that poor man out with an impact wrench...  smile

I like impacts, but like everything else, right place, right time...  I've worked on so many cars and truck where the owner improperly used an impact and caused more damage than it was worth.  Yes, when used properly, they are nice tools to have around, but cross one thread, and it's hello cut off wheel...hmm    While we are on the topic of tools, I think the deadblow hammer is under rated too....  If you've never used one, you gotten try one.



-- Edited by reno on Friday 6th of November 2009 09:50:55 AM

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If at anytime you read one of my posts and it seems offensive to you, it probably isn't.



My Jeep
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Has an engine,
4 tires,
Roll up windows,
Steering wheel,
and Lights.   :-)
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yea my impact is just a cheapie, nothing special, hence the big ol cheater bar and applying more downward force! (to turn it counterclockwise)

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My Fleet
1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project.
2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD

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Why are you trying to get the nut off? The only reason it really needs to come off is if your doing the bearings. If your swapping in new u-joints just yank the whole hub off. It's only 3 bolts on the rear (should come out rather easy) and pull the entire thing. Yes it makes doing the joint a bit harder, but it's better than trying to break the large hub nut loose...

I just did a set a few weeks ago and didn't even touch the hub nut. Had the joints in and out in 3 hours from start to finish.

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i just had all kinds of fun doing this on my blazer.get a 3/4 in. drive breaker bar and a 6 foot pipe..it will bust loose for sure...

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shop got it

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My Fleet
1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project.
2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD

 
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