I have the CAD D30 with the engagment fork shimmed so its perminatly on. I would like to know if its ok to run a lunchbox locker with the 2-piece axle in there. I have 760x u-joints that will be going in when I get the chance. What are the weaknesses of the Dana 30?
I dunno. Seems when I replaced u-joints on my '96, since it had the ABS disconnected (tone rings intact, but were removed during replacement) could have had non-abs axleshafts which would likely allow for a larger u-joint (no worries about fitting the ABS tone ring in there).
FYI a ABS tone ring looks like a gear. It's press-fit onto the axleshaft.
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My Fleet 1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods. I hate pegleg rear axles! 1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project. 2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
90XJkid wrote:I have the CAD D30 with the engagment fork shimmed so its perminatly on. I would like to know if its ok to run a lunchbox locker with the 2-piece axle in there.
Yes you will be fine; no issues at all.
90XJkid wrote:What are the weaknesses of the Dana 30?
In what respect? As in what you should upgrade first or.....?
I would like to eventually be locked, geared, and on 35s. I will likely end up with another set of 33s or 31s before going to 35s. Having an axle that can handle locked and 35s is my goal. I will start my upgrades with 760x u-joints. I have them, just need to install. Then I am thinking locker. A lunchbox of some sort. After that gearing to 4.56 knowing I need a different carrier. Do I need to consider alloys when I slap on 35s? Any other concerns? I have an Iron Rock Offroad HD Trac Bar and ZJ Tie Rod as well.
I'm sure they make truss kits for the front D30... that ought to strengthen the axle a bit. Seems to me trusses would be better if you're jumping/overloading the front end, not running 35s... but I'm sure more experienced folks know more.
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My Fleet 1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods. I hate pegleg rear axles! 1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project. 2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
I have dreams of jumping it...maybe when/if it goes full width.
I have a CAD D30 so trussing is not the easiest thing. I doubt I will put that much effort into this axle set up. The final destination, years from now, is to go full width.
If you have the larger joints you can often get away with not going to alloy/chromo shafts. It really depends on if the axle is locked and what type of wheeling you do.
Since you already have the newer shafts; run those and just carry your old set as trail spares to get you home. If you break the 760x shafts than you'll know you need to upgrade...
You are correct in the parts you need. Honestly the best option is to buy the Yukon block-off plate as it comes with the seals needed as well as the plate.
I am guessing I probably need newer driver side shaft too to run the 760x joint? What are the years I should pull the shafts from to allow the usage of 760x's?
Awesome. Thanks for the help! I will try to round up some Jeep money and call you. I have more important things to take care of first. Like life and what not.