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Topic: Strength of Dana 30

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Strength of Dana 30

I have the CAD D30 with the engagment fork shimmed so its perminatly on. I would like to know if its ok to run a lunchbox locker with the 2-piece axle in there. I have 760x u-joints that will be going in when I get the chance. What are the weaknesses of the Dana 30?

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I dunno. Seems when I replaced u-joints on my '96, since it had the ABS disconnected (tone rings intact, but were removed during replacement) could have had non-abs axleshafts which would likely allow for a larger u-joint (no worries about fitting the ABS tone ring in there).

FYI a ABS tone ring looks like a gear. It's press-fit onto the axleshaft.

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90XJkid wrote:
I have the CAD D30 with the engagment fork shimmed so its perminatly on. I would like to know if its ok to run a lunchbox locker with the 2-piece axle in there.


Yes you will be fine; no issues at all.


90XJkid wrote:
What are the weaknesses of the Dana 30?


In what respect? As in what you should upgrade first or.....?

 



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Thanks Adam!

I would like to eventually be locked, geared, and on 35s. I will likely end up with another set of 33s or 31s before going to 35s. Having an axle that can handle locked and 35s is my goal. I will start my upgrades with 760x u-joints. I have them, just need to install. Then I am thinking locker. A lunchbox of some sort. After that gearing to 4.56 knowing I need a different carrier. Do I need to consider alloys when I slap on 35s? Any other concerns? I have an Iron Rock Offroad HD Trac Bar and ZJ Tie Rod as well.

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I'm sure they make truss kits for the front D30... that ought to strengthen the axle a bit. Seems to me trusses would be better if you're jumping/overloading the front end, not running 35s... but I'm sure more experienced folks know more.

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1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project.
2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD

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I have dreams of jumping it...maybe when/if it goes full width.

I have a CAD D30 so trussing is not the easiest thing. I doubt I will put that much effort into this axle set up. The final destination, years from now, is to go full width.

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If you have the larger joints you can often get away with not going to alloy/chromo shafts. It really depends on if the axle is locked and what type of wheeling you do.

Since you already have the newer shafts; run those and just carry your old set as trail spares to get you home. If you break the 760x shafts than you'll know you need to upgrade...

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I still have the stock shafts in there with the 2-piece passenger side. Can I run the 760x joints in them?

As far as parts for the swap from the CAD to a 1-piece solid shaft I know I need:

-Block Off Plate
-New Seals
-1 piece passenger shaft

Anything Else?

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The 760x joints require the larger shaft.

You are correct in the parts you need. Honestly the best option is to buy the Yukon block-off plate as it comes with the seals needed as well as the plate.

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Thanks! Looks like I need to track down some parts...

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I am guessing I probably need newer driver side shaft too to run the 760x joint? What are the years I should pull the shafts from to allow the usage of 760x's?

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As far as out of an XJ;

89-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints
ALL 95+ have 5-297x u-joints

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Awesome. Thanks for the help! I will try to round up some Jeep money and call you. I have more important things to take care of first. Like life and what not.

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Life and what not???

That is a pretty broad spectrum... haha

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