After replacing my lower control arm bushings I took my 97 XJ for an alignment.The shop refused to do the alignment saying that there was too much play at the ball stud end of the track bar.
What are the symptoms of a worn track bar?The XJ seems to handle OK, except for a little drifting under hard braking.
Would tightening the castle nut take up the slack or should I just have the track bar replaced?
The quote I got seems OK ($228 out the door), it includes a new track bar and four wheel alignment.Thanks for any input.
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1997 Cherokee XJ, 4.0L, AW-4, NP 231 TC, Dana 35C (3.55:1) rear diff with PowerTrax No-Slip Locker, High Country front tow brackets, Rear air shocks. 126,000 miles.
I list all of those, to show you your options. Most of them are for lifted XJ's but ANY of them are a huge step up from stock. Replacing the Tracbar is not hard. Once you do it you will need it aligned anyway. So if the alignment is $50, you are ahead $175 and can upgrade instead of replacing with stock.
All of that is based on how you answer those first 3 questions though...
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
Personally I would replace with something better than stock. Especially if you ever plan on lifting it. I have an IronRockOffroad track bar and drop bracket, but I didn't see one on their website for stock height. I am very happy with my purchase.
I haven't dealt with a worn out track bar, but I have had the axle mount hole(one I drilled myself) elongate causing wander. I imaging a worn out track bar would have similar symptoms.
Tightening the castle nut sounds like a temporary fix to me.
My suggestion: If you know how to turn a wrench, buy an after market track bar, install it yourself, and then return to the alinement shop for just the alinement. Probably netting you the same expense or less and you will have a better part in there. Good luck!
I list all of those, to show you your options. Most of them are for lifted XJ's but ANY of them are a huge step up from stock. Replacing the Tracbar is not hard. Once you do it you will need it aligned anyway. So if the alignment is $50, you are ahead $175 and can upgrade instead of replacing with stock.
All of that is based on how you answer those first 3 questions though...
Thanks for your reply. My XJ is basically stock except for 29" (235/75 R15) tires. I take it off road for a yearly hunting trip on some tough old mining roads. I'm thinking about going to 30/9.5 mud tires for the trip and then put the street tires back on for the rest of the year.
They are replacing the track bar with another stock one. I've got an appointment this morning and will look at it and if it looks like some Chinese crap I will cancel the job. I only put on about 4-5,000 miles per year.
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1997 Cherokee XJ, 4.0L, AW-4, NP 231 TC, Dana 35C (3.55:1) rear diff with PowerTrax No-Slip Locker, High Country front tow brackets, Rear air shocks. 126,000 miles.
Thanks for the input guys. For some reason my reply to aci4369 did not post, I'll try again. The XJ is bascially stock (suspension wise) except for 235/75R15 (29" tires). I use my XJ as a DD except for a yearly hunting trip on some rough old mining roads while towing an old and heavy popup camper. I'm thinking about getting some 30/9.50X15 mud tires for the trip then changing back to the street tires/wheels for the rest of the year. The addition of my locker helped a lot, but mud tires would pretty much get me in and out of the woods without any problems.
Going to a good quality aftermarket track bar makes sense, but my bad back is acting up so I'll just have somebody do it. I've got an appointment this morning and will take a look at the track bar and if it looks like some Chinese crap I'll cancel.
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1997 Cherokee XJ, 4.0L, AW-4, NP 231 TC, Dana 35C (3.55:1) rear diff with PowerTrax No-Slip Locker, High Country front tow brackets, Rear air shocks. 126,000 miles.
It went OK. It took the tech over two hours to do the job. They told me he had a hard time getting the old one off...had to use a torch. I checked to see if he damaged the bracket and all looks well.
On the trip home I traveled a bumpy highway that used to cause the Jeep to bounce around and it tracked well...on to the next project (rear end clunking on bumps).
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1997 Cherokee XJ, 4.0L, AW-4, NP 231 TC, Dana 35C (3.55:1) rear diff with PowerTrax No-Slip Locker, High Country front tow brackets, Rear air shocks. 126,000 miles.
Thanks, I've got fairly new Monroe air shocks in the rear (leave springs were sagging and for towing). Next I'm going to look at the leaf spring clamps. Mine were rattling like crazy (there's a FSB on the problem) . I squeezed them down as a temporary fix and replaced one on each side with some homemade ones that I made out of flat stock.
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1997 Cherokee XJ, 4.0L, AW-4, NP 231 TC, Dana 35C (3.55:1) rear diff with PowerTrax No-Slip Locker, High Country front tow brackets, Rear air shocks. 126,000 miles.
I list all of those, to show you your options. Most of them are for lifted XJ's but ANY of them are a huge step up from stock. Replacing the Tracbar is not hard. Once you do it you will need it aligned anyway. So if the alignment is $50, you are ahead $175 and can upgrade instead of replacing with stock.
All of that is based on how you answer those first 3 questions though...
Why are you saying a stock track bar will wear out if lifted? Mine was worn out so I got a stock replacement. Went in no problem and helped a lot. I'm up 3" now with the same track bar for about a year. So far so good. I get under there and shake on it once in a while nothing is loose.
While a double-shear bracket and bar set up would be a lot better, I haven't had any issue with mine yet.
Is it a known thing that stock trackbars will fail with any lift?
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Looking for a decent low profile or tube bumper for my '88 XJ.
Also, a gutter-mounted sturdy roof rack.