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Topic: Custom Steering

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RuffedupXJ
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Custom Steering
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So sicne Haspin trashed my TRE's I need something a little stronger.  I don't want to buy stock junk again.  I bought a WJ knuckle and Tie rod off Dave.  The knuckle will allow me to run a true crossover. I hate the y-link or whatever we have.  The tie rod will work and its large.  The TRE's are about 3/4 to 7/8 in diameter, the shaft to the end is and the rod itself is 1 3/8 in diameter.  The only bad thing is the tie rod is a lil long but I figured a way out of that.  i am going to cut it in half and take 4 inches out and put a sleeve over it and weld it up.  Now my problem is the draglink.  Dave and I came up with an idea.  Get some DOM and put some big TRE's or Heims in it.  I will have to have a bend in it like Currie's setup I think. 


What size of DOM to get and heim's or TRE's?


And anythin other ideas on what to do?



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IntrepidXJ
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with the WJ knuckle you will not need a bend in the drag link.  it will go straight from the pitman arm to the high steer arm on the WJ knuckle


go with 1.25" x .250" (minimum) DOM.  then you can have a machine shop tap the tube for the thread on the TREs or heims (which ever you choose)


I am currently building a crossover steering setup with a Tera Knuckle (basically the same thing).  I am using WJ TREs all around.


HTH



-- Edited by IntrepidXJ at 22:49, 2006-06-07

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Randy Langstraat
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86cherokeexj799
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Hiems are not technically street legal but anyone who would inspect it probably wouldn't have a clue about it.  hiems are harder to find when you break them.  i think hiems give a tighter feel to the streeting, less slop.  all that being said, i would run TRD, probably grand cherokee.  actually i think the knuckles are drilled and tapped so i would run XJ on the pitman arm, GC on the knuckle, and when you cut the tierod down i would tap it for a XJ TRD so that you won't have to retap any of the holes drilled into the knuckles.  if the knuckles aren't drilled and tapped i would one either all XJ or all WJ stuff. 

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IntrepidXJ
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86cherokeexj799 wrote:

if the knuckles aren't drilled and tapped i would one either all XJ or all WJ stuff. 

why would the knuckles be drilled and tapped?  the holes on the knuckles are reamed.  the WJ TREs use the same taper as an XJ.  the WJ knuckle also has the same taper as an XJ.



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Randy Langstraat
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RuffedupXJ
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Ok well I was lookin at the WJ knuckle and I dont think it will work because of the mounts for the brakes.  Does that piece that holds the brake pads actualyl come off? because if it does then it will work. 


Randy how much was that DOM a foot you remember?  I like the size of the GC TRE's


 



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86cherokeexj799
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i wasn't sure if they were drilled and tapped cause I've heard of guys having to drill and tape d60 flat top knuckles for their steering setups and wasn't sure if ours were or not.  it seemed like they shouldn't be cause then you'd have to screw the TRE into the knuckle and then screw them into the tierod and thats way too much screwing for one little part to handle...

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IntrepidXJ
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86cherokeexj799 wrote:

i wasn't sure if they were drilled and tapped cause I've heard of guys having to drill and tape d60 flat top knuckles for their steering setups and wasn't sure if ours were or not.  it seemed like they shouldn't be cause then you'd have to screw the TRE into the knuckle and then screw them into the tierod and thats way too much screwing for one little part to handle...

 


ahhh....i see what you are talking about.  knuckles with flat tops need to be milled flat and then drilled and tapped so that you can bolt on a high steer arm.  those knuckles are found on D44's and D60's.  there is nothing like that available for a D30.


the WJ knuckle and Tera knuckle for the D30 is actually one solid piece.  here's a pic of my Tera so you can see what I'm talking about.





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Randy Langstraat
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IntrepidXJ
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RuffedupXj wrote:

Ok well I was lookin at the WJ knuckle and I dont think it will work because of the mounts for the brakes.  Does that piece that holds the brake pads actualyl come off? because if it does then it will work.  Randy how much was that DOM a foot you remember?  I like the size of the GC TRE's  


that is right.  in order to use the WJ knuckle, you would need to run both sides if you want to keep your brakes the same on each side.  plus there are some other modifications required.  it adds up quickly.  here's the writeup on running the WJ knuckles (not something I wanted to deal with.....that's why i went with the tera knuckle):


http://www.jksmfg.com/db/fab_parts/doc_page2.html


anyways, i just looked up the price on 1.25" x .250 DOM and it was about $85 for 6 feet.


now.....if you are definately going with the WJ TREs and don;t want to deal with making your own tie rod and drag link....there is an easier way:


JKS makes a tie rod and drag link at the right lengths for a stock D30 using a WJ or Tera Knuckle.....and they are already tapped for the WJ TREs (which is a 24mm thread).


Tie Rod: http://www.jksmfg.com/fab_parts-955.htm


Drag Link: http://www.jksmfg.com/fab_parts-956.htm


24mm Jam Nuts: http://www.jksmfg.com/fab_parts-957.htm


This is the route I am going since I am too lazy to make my own steering links ;)


Anyways, I hope that helps, I got plenty more info on steering if you need it.  I just spent the last few weeks researching every steeriong option out there for the D30 to replace my old Currie steering ;)



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Randy Langstraat
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86cherokeexj799
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wow that is a lot more work than i thought it was.  i thought the WJ's ran the same brakes as XJ's.  so nate you'll need that other knuckle i have too it sounds like.  if you don't want to do all this i'll take my knuckle and tie rod back and let my brother have a shot at doing this converson.  i didn't realize there was so much to this thing. 


randy one thing i noticed on your tera knuckle, the caliper braket is forged into the knuckle.  on the WJ knuckle i gave nate (ruffedup) there were just the 2 holes to mount the caliper braket on like a stock XJ knuckle has.  what if anything do you know about that?  it seems like you should just be able to bolt the XJ caliper bracket to the WJ knuckle and save yourself some work...



-- Edited by 86cherokeexj799 at 21:34, 2006-06-08

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86cherokeexj799
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RuffedupXj wrote:


Ok well I was lookin at the WJ knuckle and I dont think it will work because of the mounts for the brakes.  Does that piece that holds the brake pads actualyl come off? because if it does then it will work. 


 


nate i am sure some knuckles that caliper mounting bracket comes off.  i have some caliper mounting brackets in my garage. 


sorry...double post...



-- Edited by 86cherokeexj799 at 21:37, 2006-06-08

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IntrepidXJ
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oh yeah, don;t forget that with these knuckles you will need to shorten your trackbar and move the mount on the axle side up

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Randy Langstraat
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86cherokeexj799 wrote:

randy one thing i noticed on your tera knuckle, the caliper braket is forged into the knuckle.  on the WJ knuckle i gave nate (ruffedup) there were just the 2 holes to mount the caliper braket on like a stock XJ knuckle has.  what if anything do you know about that?  it seems like you should just be able to bolt the XJ caliper bracket to the WJ knuckle and save yourself some work

my stock knuckle



i beleive there are 2 styles of knuckle used on the XJ's  91+ looks like mine



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Randy Langstraat
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IntrepidXJ
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just realized ruffed has an 88.  don;t believe the tera knuckle will work out for him, unless he wants to change the brakes as well and get a newer style stock knuckle for the drivers side.  plus the newer style uni-bearings



-- Edited by IntrepidXJ at 21:47, 2006-06-08

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Randy Langstraat
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RuffedupXJ
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My front axle is from a 93 so i have the newer ones.  So its a forged peice. We will see what i am goign to do i need something anyone have a stock draglink thats not to bad?

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