Working on an 89 XJ....223K miles, 4.0L, AW4, etc....
I can't seem to get this damn thing to come up to operating temp. I've replaced thermostat, flushed/drained/replaced coolant, even tried a winter coat. Also replaced clutch fan for Taurus e-fan.
Running down the highway, temp moves btwn ~150 and ~165. Idling in drive thru, parking lot, long stoplight the temp comes up to ~190-200. Under load (4WD up a mountain, 95+ deg. day), temp came up to ~220.
I was testing out the e-fan install yesterday, and let it idle up to temperature. It ran up to about 210, then the fans cycled on and off properly. What gets me is this: It took my XJ almost 20 minutes to go from cold block to 210. A buddy's 89 Waggy only took 10 minutes to do the same.
Please help me get some actual heat out of my vents, heat in my motor, and keep me from having to wrench on this thing in the dead of winter when the block freezes up!!
My old XJ, the one that Mysticfire has now, always rode around 185-195. I had a 180 thermastat in it though. Now a lot of people have the 180 thermastat and it still rides around 210, but mine didn't. Do you know what thermastat you have in it? You might just need to put a 195 in it. Although even if it had a 180 in it that is still pritty low.
-- Edited by aci4369 at 20:37, 2007-09-16
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
All the thermostats I put in are OEM temp, 195. All have come from Autozone, and I tested the last one in a pot of water before putting it in. It opened 'bout 195, closed up 'bout 180. The folks at NAXJA tell me the only other thing to do is find a thermostat from a dealer.....
And, no, Firehawk.....It still runs the same temps with the e-fan in place. That's what really gets me. This thing is running with the e-fans disengaged, and still only hits 200 in a drive-thru...
Even though you have a new t-stat that is your problem. A t-stat sets the MIN. temp your engine will run at. I won't teach you on t-stats as you probally know how they work and the function of them. However your problem is that you went to your local auto-supply store and they sold you a functional, however wrong for your application t-stat.
Even though you tested it prior to install, it is not working. Why? Well you have an air pocket trapped in your motor. The air will travel to the highest point (your t-stat) and keep the pocket there. So coolant is not getting to your t-stat to allow it to open, thus flowing threw the radiator/heater core hoses. The coolant in your motor is most likely at the correct operating temp (maybe even higher), however on the Renix era XJ's the temp sensor is located on the radiator at the top driverside corner. The coolant temp at that area is going to take quite a while to get upto the 200 mark desired temp since it has to SLOWLY push that airpocket around.
The cure for this problem? Buy the MOPAR t-stat from your local dealer. Yes I know it's twice the price of the one you just bought, but suck it up and pay for it so it will cure your problems. The MOPAR version has a little "bleader" on it to allow the air to escape. You can see it at the top of this MOPAR t-stat in this picture.
Your's most likely does not have this, thus the cause of your problem.
High Output motor's have this same issue, however 90% of people are unaware of it as they have thier temp gauge on the t-stat housing and not on the radiator itself on the open-loop systems.
Even though you have a new t-stat that is your problem. A t-stat sets the MIN. temp your engine will run at. I won't teach you on t-stats as you probally know how they work and the function of them. However your problem is that you went to your local auto-supply store and they sold you a functional, however wrong for your application t-stat.
Even though you tested it prior to install, it is not working. Why? Well you have an air pocket trapped in your motor. The air will travel to the highest point (your t-stat) and keep the pocket there. So coolant is not getting to your t-stat to allow it to open, thus flowing threw the radiator/heater core hoses. The coolant in your motor is most likely at the correct operating temp (maybe even higher), however on the Renix era XJ's the temp sensor is located on the radiator at the top driverside corner. The coolant temp at that area is going to take quite a while to get upto the 200 mark desired temp since it has to SLOWLY push that airpocket around.
High Output motor's have this same issue, however 90% of people are unaware of it as they have thier temp gauge on the t-stat housing and not on the radiator itself on the open-loop systems.
I never knew this.
RacoonJoe- what's your efan setup?
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My Fleet 1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods. I hate pegleg rear axles! 1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project. 2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW = OK, I can follow your explanation, and will look into getting a dealer t-stat. This must be why I see threads on NAXJA about drilling holes in the thermostats. Just one small problem, however......The sensor for my dash is in the back of the head. The sensor in the rad. is for the ECM/aux fan....
Efan setup = stock aux fan on the left, Taurus e-fan on the right. Mounted to stock fan shroud.
I wired a relay to trigger the low speed side of the Taurus fan automatically, and the high side is triggered by a toggle switch inside the Jeep. I pulled the signal wire from the stock relay, and made that the signal wire for my Taurus relay. Then ran hot and cold lines accordingly. Now, when the stock fan kicks on 215-220, both fans kick on.
We wired 2 of these systems up in a similar fashion. One for me, and one for woodywagon. He wired his to a selector switch, allowing him to select hi/low/off, controlled by the temp sensor. (and tells me it works great). I can probably pull up a classic MSPaint wiring diagram if you're interested.
Mounting the fans wasn't too bad. If I had to do it again, I would delete the fan pulley, and find a shorter belt to fit. As it sits, we had to grind down the studs on that pulley, and then cut the bottom off the stock shroud in order to get the fans to clearance properly. I'll see if I can get some photos, as I still need to pull it apart again. I have some clearance issues....when the motor cams (acceleration, torque braking, etc), the studs on the fan pulley nick up against the back of the fan housing.