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Topic: TRANSFER CASE DROP

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TRANSFER CASE DROP

alright, so i'm really getting tired of the "GROWLLLL" from my t/c case not being dropped yet.   so, who all on here has purchased a kit for theirs and who do you think is the best bang for the buck????  i know it's kind of a simple mod, but i like opinions.  
OH, also, i'm looking into a TB spacer as well.  anyone have opinions on that??  thanks!!

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SCORE!: 1996 Cherokee Sport, bone stock, excellent condition, one owner, with currently 47,000 ORIGINAL miles!!
CURRENTLY:  2001 Cherokee Limited 4-dr, 33" Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts, 6-8" well built custom lift (sorry, i haven't measured yet).

SOLD: Project Rig: 87 Cherokee Pioneer 4dr.  bone stock now.  coming soon: 3" budget lift, go completely doorless and chop the rear cargo area out.

SOLD:  '98 Cherokee Sport 2dr, 3" SkyJacker w/ 2" budget boost, 31" Truxxus meats, Protofab off-road bumpers & rock rails, KC Highlights


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TC Drop-

A TC drop is just a "bandaid" to fixing the problem. The only true solution to the problem is a SYE.

Thier are several kits on the market. Some a bit more expensive than others. They are easily made yourself as well. My personal fav. is the skyjacker one, as it does come with the added bracket for the t-case shifter linkage as well. It's probally the most expensive ones on the market however.

Why don't you just put your spare TC in that already has the SYE installed?

TB Spacer-

Pointless and will offer no gains what so ever.

The idea behind a TBS is to swirl the air thereby somehow making a more dense charge in the combustion chamber. I do know, that if you make a more dense air charge in the combustion chamber, you will have more oxygen in the chamber, therefore making a bigger boom (= more power). What I do not know is, how swirling air can make it more dense as they advertise.

If the fuel is injected at the lower intake near the cylinder head, what exactly is the TBS combining with air in order to make this "super atomizing mixture"? If it is beneficial to "spiral" the air at the throttle body; than how is that "spiral" maintained once the air hits intake manifold and has to be distributed (we're not running multi-throttle bodies are we?)? If air velocity is good (as in forced induction through supercharger) like has been proven in 1800BC; than how can reducing air velocity be good?

I personally think that the spacer would have to be about 20 inches long in order to have a swirling effect on the entering air. I think it could possibly produce a "tumbling" effect caused by the low pressure area on the backside of each machined "swirl". But once again; how is this good? Why do we polish intake manifolds and heads to get it as smooth as possiable to increase flow? And a raised "swirl" is doing what? Does it work? Not from my experience. Ok MAYBE on a highly modded engine, but not on your stock 4.0L.

They look like they might make good cupholders though, for what its worth. Expensive; but the helix core design would probably keep the cup from falling out easily. Maybe they should add that to their advertising campains...

If your wanting gains, get a bored TB or upgrade to the 99-01 intake manifold.


-- Edited by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW at 09:11, 2007-11-04

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I don't know very much about this AT ALL, but I will say that a I have a certain "comfort" in knowing that I have a sye. Maybe it is just a girl thing, but when wheeling it makes me feel better...

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well ok then! ;)  yes i should swap t/c.... just gotta find the time and the help of SOMEONE who knows what they are doing on that... hmmm....
also, even after i do the swap, wouldn't it still help to put in a drop spacer to lessen the angle of the shafts???

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SCORE!: 1996 Cherokee Sport, bone stock, excellent condition, one owner, with currently 47,000 ORIGINAL miles!!
CURRENTLY:  2001 Cherokee Limited 4-dr, 33" Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts, 6-8" well built custom lift (sorry, i haven't measured yet).

SOLD: Project Rig: 87 Cherokee Pioneer 4dr.  bone stock now.  coming soon: 3" budget lift, go completely doorless and chop the rear cargo area out.

SOLD:  '98 Cherokee Sport 2dr, 3" SkyJacker w/ 2" budget boost, 31" Truxxus meats, Protofab off-road bumpers & rock rails, KC Highlights


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if you've got some scrap metal laying around, make your own. I welded 2 1/2 pieces of U-Channel steel together to make some brackets. Drilled 2 holes apiece, viola. Total Cost about $7 for some bolts. Most I saw online were basically 1 inch pieces of pipe and longer bolts. Looked cheap to me. Did rid me of the little vibes that I got after lift (very slight at about 45-47 mph).

SYE isn't a bad idea, just not in the budget currently.

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if you have a case with an SYE i'd go that route.. changing out cases shouldnt be too incredibly hard unless a couple bolts snap in the process of whatever you're doing (usually my problem on my '93) if you have an SYE i dont believe a drop would be necessary.. although if you still do want to do a drop, i would go the make it myself route..

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dstaub wrote:

well ok then! ;) yes i should swap t/c.... just gotta find the time and the help of SOMEONE who knows what they are doing on that... hmmm....
also, even after i do the swap, wouldn't it still help to put in a drop spacer to lessen the angle of the shafts???



No, no TC drop is needed.

This represents a standard driveshaft setup that is done correctly. Note how the angle of the pinion is paralell with the angle of the transfer case output. Pinion and transfer case output angles are shown in orange. The drive shaft angle is exagerated in these drawings.

stdgd.gif

 

Another way that a standard drive shaft could be set up correctly. This is a situation that is typically encountered when the transfercase is lowered. Note how the pinion angle has been raised to be paralell with the transfer case output shaft.
stdgdb.gif

 

 

This is a standard drive shaft setup that is going to cause vibrations. Notice how the pinion angle is very different from the transfer case output shaft angle. This is what is currently causing you issues.
stdbd.gif

 

Here is a CV type setup that is done correctly. The pinion should be 2 degrees below being pointed straight into the drive shaft. This is what it will be like once you have the SYE installed with the CV driveshaft.
cvgd.gif



-- Edited by LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW at 15:43, 2007-11-07

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'93 XJ Cherokee Sport - build thread
'89 XJ Cherokee Laredo - build thread
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 I have the same lift on my jeep. Less the 2" spacer kit. I have the t/c drop kit and I still have driveline noise. The only correct way to fix this is an sye kit and cv shaft. Budget wise , its gonna cost ya to do it right. I still have yet to do so , but plan on it.

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