Well my U-joints are officially starting to scare me now... So wondering if anyone has done this upgrade before or what type of U-joints they would prefer? I have done it once before but it has been a while. I know that there are greasable or non greasable ones. Is there any prefrence? I think that the last time I did non greasable and they are still doing fine on the old XJ. Just looking to see if anyone has any input before I start spending money.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
Get the Spicer greasable's. They are reasonably priced and you can get them at NAPA.
Just make sure that they don't try to sell you the Precision one's as they tend to try to do that (9 times out of 10 they do). Most of them do not stock the Spicers but they can order them for you.
Thier is also the online alternative to getting them. Long story short, I've been very happy with the Spicer's and they have held up very well for me over the years.
Just make sure you tell them the year of your XJ as you've most likely got the larger joints (297's).
yeah, getting that fixed would be a good thing! i actually just had my front hub assembly, u-joint, and water pump all done at the same time. got tired of hearing bad noises!
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SCORE!: 1996 Cherokee Sport, bone stock, excellent condition, one owner, with currently 47,000 ORIGINAL miles!!
CURRENTLY: 2001 Cherokee Limited 4-dr, 33" Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts, 6-8" well built custom lift (sorry, i haven't measured yet).
SOLD: Project Rig: 87 Cherokee Pioneer 4dr. bone stock now. coming soon: 3" budget lift, go completely doorless and chop the rear cargo area out.
I went and talked to Ft. Wayne power Train and they said that they could install the U-joints for $10-15 a piece depending on how bad they are(because of the worse they are the harder to take apart) so I am counting on $15. They said that if I bring the U-joints it is an extra $10 a piece, than if they supply them. They had spicer U-joints so I didn't buy any I figure that I will just have them supply them, save me $10 a piece. Now I just have to pull the half shafts :(
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
I went and talked to Ft. Wayne power Train and they said that they could install the U-joints for $10-15 a piece depending on how bad they are(because of the worse they are the harder to take apart) so I am counting on $15. They said that if I bring the U-joints it is an extra $10 a piece, than if they supply them. They had spicer U-joints so I didn't buy any I figure that I will just have them supply them, save me $10 a piece. Now I just have to pull the half shafts :(
Your already doing the hard work by pulling the shafts, why not change the U-Joints yourself. Couple of sockets and a hammer and viola
I might, do you have any links on how to do it? I thought about it, there has been some talk on here about doing a wrench party at someone's place with a press too. Whoo knows.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
I might, do you have any links on how to do it? I thought about it, there has been some talk on here about doing a wrench party at someone's place with a press too. Whoo knows.
No writeups that I know of, but It's pretty simple. You need 2 sockets, 1 smaller than the cap, and 1 bigger.
Take the clips out of the old caps, put big socket on the floor / workbench. Position cap directly over that socket. Put the smaller socket on the top of the cap, and beat the cap down into the bigger one. You may have to flip, and reverse this procedure until you get the caps loose enough that you can pull one of them off.
press would be better/easier but I don't have one.
Adam if you can press them for me, does anyone know where I can get Spicer U-joints? Napa doesn't sell them anymore. Ft. Wayne Power Train had them but I don't know that they would sell them to me.
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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's '11 Dodge Charger
I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.
Go to Harbor Freight & buy a 6" vise on sale there (IIRC they're on sale for about $50 till christmas). Buy your new greasable u-joints & some grease & anti-sieze. Remove your u-joints/shafts & hub (an adventure in itself sometimes)
Remove the u-joint retaining clips, find a socket slightly smaller than the u-joint & slightly larger than the u-joint. "Press" the u-joints out with the vise; once you have it cranked tight, whack the vise with a regular hammer & the caps should bust right loose. Remove the old joints & install the new ones in reverse procedure.
Apply liberal amounts of anti-sieze to the hub mounting surface, hub bolts & shaft splines in the hub. reinstall stuff. add more grease to your u-joints.
It may cost you a few more ($10?) up front but knowing how to replace a u-joint is priceless in the long run as you will probably have to replace them all again, along with replacing your driveshaft u-joints.
Well I wish I had seen this earlier, I just put new u-joints in two days ago and used the precision greasable ones from napa. So why do you say those are bad?
As for pressing them out mine were the worst I have seen and there is absolutly no way they would have come out with a socket and hammer. I had them in a ball joint press and had to hammer the wrench to turn it. When they popped they went flying out, I still haven't found one of the caps. But these were extremely bad, one of the caps had NO BEARINGS LEFT!