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Topic: Spicer 297x vs. Spicer 760x U-Joints

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GLXJ PRESIDENT
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Spicer 297x vs. Spicer 760x U-Joints

We were talking about this in the chat-box so I figured I'd make a post with pics.

Here is a photo compairing the 2 side by side.

dcp_0184.jpg

Spicer is phasing out the older 297x for the 760x. The 760x are stronger (quite a bit stronger), however they are NOT greasable. The 297x comes in either a greasable or non-greasable version.




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so do you want to be able to grease them ?
or dont worry about it ?
Im dumb

But thanks for the post

So the 760x is for the driv shaft ?



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The 760x is for the front axle shaft u-joints. I do prefer a greasable joint, however in this case I'd rather have a stronger joint than having it greasable. It really depends on what type of wheeling you do. If your in the mud A LOT I'd look at a greasable joint, if your on the trails, and/or rocks more than I'd just go with the 760x.

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ok, Well i gues ill hit up the auto shop and see what they have
I wheel more on trails and get muddy time to time
Its a 1999, so im sure the u-joints are stock, and would love to be replaced
to bad i didnt live closer so i could watch you and Andy change his


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1999  XJ  SPORT,  4.5'' LIFT,  32'' X 11.50''  TIRE'S



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Ya, I went with the 760.  They aren't phasing the others out for nothing, and I figure if everyone says that they are a lot stronger then it can't hurt for pritty much the same price. 

I will try and remember the camera so that we can make a tech writeup about changing them out, since there seems to be quite a few people going to be tackling this problem in the near future.

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good stuff to know

are u planning on doing a writeup on u-joints?

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GLXJ PRESIDENT
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bmyohn wrote:

good stuff to know

are u planning on doing a writeup on u-joints?



Andy and I will be doing his on this coming Monday.

As always from me, expect a full detailed write-up with pics. smile

 



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well i orderd some U-joints today, i only got 5, which will take care of the drive shafts.
I didnt get the ones for the front Axle cause, I guess i didnt realize i have to take everything off of the fron to get to the u- joints.

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1999  XJ  SPORT,  4.5'' LIFT,  32'' X 11.50''  TIRE'S



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aci4369 wrote:

Ya, I went with the 760.  They aren't phasing the others out for nothing, and I figure if everyone says that they are a lot stronger then it can't hurt for pritty much the same price. 

I will try and remember the camera so that we can make a tech writeup about changing them out, since there seems to be quite a few people going to be tackling this problem in the near future.







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biggrin as u can see i can read really well in the mornings...lol

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Picked up my U-Joints after work, 5 for $ 52.00 with my MDOT Doscount.
3 are the same and 2 are the same, I guess the 2 are for the cardan part, 1 for the front, and the other 2 for the rear.
But after more discussions today about U-Joints,Im really confused

1. Guy said, if there is nothing wrong with them, Dont change them.
2. Stock ones are stronger then after market ones.
3. If the zerk fitting is in the body they are weak
4. when you install them, Make sure the zerk fitting go's with the force of the drive shaft, Not against it.

I tell yha, i put them in a box and through them in my tub i carry with me when i wheel.
Im so lost on these thing's, guess i wasted $52.00

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1. Guy said, if there is nothing wrong with them, Dont change them.
What guy? His logic is kinda scewed if you ask me. If your replacing them for a) prevenative maintance or b) upgrading them to a stronger joint, than why not change them? If your simply swapping them out with the exact same thing than I'll agree to some extent.

2. Stock ones are stronger then after market ones.
Once again says who? How creditable is the person your talking to? Let me show you a $250 CTM u-joint that's quarantee'd not to break. I'd dare him to say that to me...

3. If the zerk fitting is in the body they are weak.
90% of the joints I've seen break are in the "shaft" somewhere, not in the body. A zerk in the body will help spread the grease better. Also if the zerk was on the "shaft" I can guarantee you I'd bust it off...

4. when you install them, Make sure the zerk fitting go's with the force of the drive shaft, Not against it.
Only tip I have is to put the zerks all in the same spot. So for example on your front axle, place the joints facing the same way so it's easier to grease them (if you have greasable joints). It saves you from having to roll your jeep forward or backword to go from joint to joint. Just put them in so they are easily accesable and they all point the same direction so where your under your XJ your only under it 1 time, not 5 times...

Also, yes it's always a good idea to have a few spare joints in the tool box for the trail.

What brand/model joints did you get?


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I agree with you totally Adam, Thats why i wanted to share what i had heard today talking about U-Joints
Another one was something about getting TOMWOODS drive shaft, something about they come with really good U-Joints in them.

I got what ever it was they had @ the NAPA store, I forget what they were called,  presesion or something,  the 2 are from Japan, called pro former.
the other 3 just say NAPA U JOINTS  made in China.
My luck they are really junky

-- Edited by Chris99XJ at 21:10, 2008-01-18

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1999  XJ  SPORT,  4.5'' LIFT,  32'' X 11.50''  TIRE'S



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GLXJ PRESIDENT
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Here is an OLD post about the precison/fedral mogal u-joints from Napa

CLICK ME

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here is what i got today Adam
Looks like i might have screwed up then ?







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