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Topic: Removing 97+ doors with power *write-up*

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Removing 97+ doors with power *write-up*

Ok before I post this up I want everyone to know that this whole thread was taken off of Jeepforum.com in their Tech section from the user named "Sharpie".  It is his writeup I did nothing but copy it onto here.  I did this for a couple of reasons:
1. It is full of good info and is very helpfull. 
2. I don't know how many times I have looked for this writeup and thought I found it only to click on it and the domain is not found.  So this time I am taking everything and copying and pasting it to here so that it will not disapear again.
3. If you will notice the write up is only half finished. cry  Once again this is why I am posting this, maybe we can eventually get enough for the whole writeup.

Here we go.





So, everyone knows the whole "cut hinge with angle-grinder, cut off bottom ear of hinge" way to do <97 XJs, but there hasn't been that much literature, let alone pictures, on removing 97+ doors, not to mention with power. So here goes.

Roll down your window
this will help protect the glass while stowed, will make it easier to carry, and will just be all-around easier.


We need to deal with the door-controlled dome light now, unless you like jumping your Jeep
Use the correct size box-end wrench to unscrew the dome light button on the body near the door hinges, and unplug the unit.
Once unplugged, the dome light will not be able to drain your battery



Next, we are going to need that pesky door-helper to stop "helping"
to do this, get a hammer up there, and pound it from the bottom
once it gets to where you can't pound it any longer, get a philips head screwdriver under it, and hammer on the screwdriver







Support the door with a broom handle or pipe
the door will be inclined to close on you, and we need it opened to the maximum
put a cloth towel over the end that touches the door, or it could possible scuff, mar, or scratch it


Now, we have to deal with the electronics
Notice that when you open your door, there is a rubber boot between the body and the door, containing a big bundle of wires.
To remove the door, we have to unplug these wires. The easiest place to do this is behind the kick panel.
Start out by removing the two screws pointed out with red arrows



Pull this panel up (it will still be attached, so be gentle), and slide the kick panel out. The passenger side will have a bolt under the door for the fuse panel, it's 11mm, and is easy to remove. Then you can access the plugs.


Pull the plugs that are attached to the door wire bundle
The driver's side has three plugs, and the passenger side has four
on the passenger side, the plugs are easily removable by pressing down on the lock. The driver's side is more complicated, and my advice is when you get them out, cut the tabs on the plugs on the driver's side, so they slide in and out easier.


Now we have to deal with the grommet on the inside of the body
Feed the plugs out of the body (2 holes in the 2 layers of the sheet metal)
It should just pull out initially, but you won't want to keep it there, as it will be an unnecessary burden
use dikes to clip the grommet away from the wire bundle.


Now, onto the hinge pins themselves
There is a plastic shield to the hinge pins that must be removed. Use a chisel (for wood or for metal) to chip away at the plastic



Using some creative techniques, make sure you get all the way around, and the plastic should just come out

This is the end product






And that is where his write up ends.  I will hopefully be able to find the rest somewhere else.  If someone else can find it feel free to post it up here.

-- Edited by aci4369 at 12:36, 2008-03-30

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Ok, I found a post that replies to the one I posted above and finishes the project.  This was also posted on Jeepforum.com by user "fast64".  This is only one way to do it and from what I am reading "Sharpie" from above did not finish his this way.  He removed the pins completely and left the holes in the hinges both on the XJ and the door, he would then line the holes up and drop a pin in the top to keep the doors on.  This way seems to be a little bit more difficult to do intially but easier in the long run.

Here goes it:

I was reading Sharpie's thread about going doorless in a 97+ (posted above in first post) When I got to thinking "why can't we just cut the bottom on the hinge4.gif off like on the earlier models, so that going doorless on a 97+ is a one man job?", so I went outside and looked at the hinges4.gif on my 99 and my 88. It looks like the hinge on the 88 sticks out from the body a little further than on the 99 which allows the 88's door to be pulled straight up. The 99's door, however interfers with the A-pillar just enough so that you can't pull it straight up and off.

After coming to this realization, I thought maybe a "short" hinge pin on the top hinge and a "full length" hinge pin on the bottom hinge will allow me to pull my doors straight off and on by myself. I decided to try it, and this is what I came up with:

Remember, modifying your hinges will never allow you to have factory hinges again without buying brand new ones and welding them on.

First, I took the doors off following Sharpie's instructions, making sure to undo the wiring behind the kick panel and also to take out the hinge pins.

This is what the the part of the hinge thats left on the Jeep should look like:



I then unbolted the hinge from the door (remember to mark where they were bolted, this will make door alignment much easier). After this, I cut the bottom of the hinge off so that the hinge looked like this:



The extra pieces from the hinge that you won't need anymore should look something like this:



Next, I took some 4" long 5/16" bolts and cut them down to act as new hinge pins. The bottom hinge pin needs to be long enough to go through the entire hinge. The top hinge pin only needs to be about to the blue line:



After I cut the bolts, I welded them to what is left of the hinge. This is the bottom hinge, remember the top one will need to be shorter (Please ignore the crap looking welds):



All thats left now is to bolt the hinges back onto the door and slide the door back onto the Jeep. You may need to do a little bit of aligning, but take your time, it will be worth it to have nicely sealed doors.

After some aligning, I got my door to have almost factory gaps and sealed perfectly:



Back doors:
The back doors are done using the same method as the front. However, they are really easy to do compared to the fronts though do to the extra room you have to work with (no fender right there by the door). Also, if you don't have power windows or locks there are no wires to disconnect for the back doors


The last step is to take your doors back off, enjoy how easy it is, and then go drive around and watch the crazy looks you get.





Also, for anyone who is interested the weights for the doors on a non-power 4 door1.gif are:

68 lbs/ea for the front doors
42 lbs/ea for the rear doors

This is using an old bathroom scale, so it may be a little off, but should be in the ballpark atleast.

These are close-ups of the hinges completed on the passenger's side:

Top hinge:



Bottom hinge:



-- Edited by aci4369 at 13:30, 2008-03-30

-- Edited by aci4369 at 17:16, 2008-05-13

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'99 XJ, 5.5" lift, 33" MT's
'11 Dodge Charger

I miss the days that they made toys that could kill a kid.

*Support our Troops*


My Pics and Specs

My Build Thread

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Nice write up. This answers one of my previous posts. Thank you.


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04 wj (w/3 car seats too)
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Thank's to Andy, I used this wright up to do my door's...
It was a good find.
The dome light button is 15mm on my 1999 XJ.
And i didn't weld the 5/16 bolts, seems to make it easy er to keep them loose.
Oh yha, I also took off the door helper's completly.
And i got new bushing's from my local body shop to replace the old worn out one's that i had.


Thank's Andy for posting this

And Adam. My Nephew's 1997 XJ has the same hinge's as yours. Cant figure that one out.

-- Edited by Chris99XJ on Friday 21st of August 2009 01:01:09 PM

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1999  XJ  SPORT,  4.5'' LIFT,  32'' X 11.50''  TIRE'S



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