Your electric fan is turned on by a sensor. You may want to check it/ replace it . I believe this is what your refering to. A clutch fan would be the actual fan that runs off the engine. The "clutch" allows the engine fan to spin at a consistant rate no matter what speed the engine is running at. Do you have a fan shroud ? Have you checked your hoses? Flushed rad? All can lead to overheating. Maybe you have stated this already, if so I missed it.
Again though 215 is not too hot. If your concern is overheating, check the sensor, change fluids, and inspect entire cooling system.
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99 sport. rust bucket, DD, 3 car seats 04 wj (w/3 car seats too) DD duty for the lady
Jeep people aren't rich. I'll go with the lebaron vents (70 bucks) over a cowl induction hood (I think they run $500 or so) any day of the week. Of course, spacers are an inexpensive alternaitve.
Adam- What's the PN on the spal fan?
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My Fleet 1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods. I hate pegleg rear axles! 1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project. 2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
Your electric fan is turned on by a sensor. You may want to check it/ replace it . I believe this is what your refering to. A clutch fan would be the actual fan that runs off the engine. The "clutch" allows the engine fan to spin at a consistant rate no matter what speed the engine is running at. Do you have a fan shroud ? Have you checked your hoses? Flushed rad? All can lead to overheating. Maybe you have stated this already, if so I missed it.
Again though 215 is not too hot. If your concern is overheating, check the sensor, change fluids, and inspect entire cooling system.
Alright well first question, where is the sensor at?
To answer your questions, yes I have a shroud, hoses all look alright but I'll look more closely when I have time, gotta get to work in a little bit here. I've also flushed the radiator but at the time didn't think about filling it with distilled water so again there's rust in it, but I don't think that's what caused it because about a day or two after flushing it the coolant was rusty when I took off the radiator cap. I think it may be time for a new radiator.
I actually bought that hood and it didnt fit right needed a little muscling it into place and had gap problems for the price I wouldnt buy it, I lost money on the deal , dont know if I got a defective one but to me it wasnt worth the hassel, but that is just my opinion
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To build something that can run over the idiot driving 45 in the passing lane ,Now Thats Talent!
ChevelleSSLS6 wrote:Adam- What's the PN on the spal fan?
Here is a pic of it. You may be able to zoom the pic and see the part number on it. Unfortantly it's not been installed yet and sits in storage about an hour away so I'm not going to make the trip to just get the part number.
You mentioning the cap reminded me check to see if cap is still holding psi rating or just replace it. Its funny how many things contribute to one problem.
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99 sport. rust bucket, DD, 3 car seats 04 wj (w/3 car seats too) DD duty for the lady
"Please use a stock 195*F temperature one ( #4365 on the Mr. Gasket version or Stant Superstat #45259 ) so as your computer wont think it is still in the warm up cycle and stay in open loop meaning the O2 sensor is not read and you run rich. Also, the higher the temp you can get the more efficient your engine is. Engineers are running the temperatures higher as materials and designs improve. For every 10F under 180F your engine wear rate doubles due to chemical reactions on the surface of the cylinder walls. Running a 160F thermostat QUADRUPLES your engine wear rate. For every mile you drive your engine wears like it has been driven four miles. The chemical reactions drop little abrasive oxide particles in the oil that eats up the bearings and everything else as well."
I'm going to be investing a new 180 t-stat tomorrow and most likely a high flow housing.
Gotta get rid of that 160. And after I do it, I think I'll print that out and bring it to the d*ck at autozone and let him look at it and then ask him if a 160 is fine. And also ask him why bad air/fuel would cause my battery to die.
Good luck at Autozone. Sorry if anyone here works there, but my impression with EVERY Autozone I have ever been to is that they get paid to be MORONS! I have known personally a few people who have worked there and they probably couldn't tell an alternator from a carburetor. Stupid! You have to go in there knowing what you need and telling them. Otherwise you will end up with all the wrong stuff.
Or you could simply show him the print out and explain to him your problem. Then ask for his manager do the same show and tell. Educate both of them. Aks for a refund. End it politely. Drop off some GLXJ cards for them to hand out. You may be viewed as that great guy who owns an XJ and a good rep of the four wheeling community. May be even influance them not to be morons. Just a thought.
PS I shop @ Murrys for my everyday stuff.
-- Edited by threeEs99 at 22:00, 2008-08-27
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99 sport. rust bucket, DD, 3 car seats 04 wj (w/3 car seats too) DD duty for the lady