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Topic: SYE help

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ChevelleSSLS6
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SYE help
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As many of you know, my XJ killed off a u-joint over the weekend... it has vibes (not 'dying u joint' but not much better) since I put the 3.5 RE lift on from about 20-30mph, otherwise it's not too bad.

Post-roadside repair, my first thought was holy cow, driving it fwd is nice!  Sure it has some vibes and stuff, but it's a Jeep!  It's not perfect, but much more tolerable than with the rear attached.

I'm thinking of limping it around town in fwd until I get a SYE and XJ front ds to chuck in there.  I stole the following from the project snowball thread...

these look good.

This looks good too LINK

If I get my own salvage front DS from a XJ, it'll drop in with the sye, right?

What do you guys think?  Will a hack-n-tap be fine for my mild lift levels?  Any advice on installs?  If I order before midnight can MOR get me one by the end of the week?

Well, I might go to the salvage yard today, but I have some other errands to run first, so I might get to that tomorrow.

I appreciate the help and support!
-Matt

-- Edited by ChevelleSSLS6 on Monday 14th of September 2009 11:44:22 AM

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I'm one that says if your going to do it, do it right the 1st time. With that being said I'll offer the following advice;

1) Do not do a Hack-N-Tap. The only time I recommend a H-N-T setup is if you have a NP242 TC (that is the only option for a sye with that t-case). Otherwise do the full tailshaft conversion. Not only will it last longer, it's a TON stronger.

2) Do not go with the IRO setup. It's a hodge-popdge of parts thrown together to solve the problem. They use a slip yoke and want you to fix it to your output shaft (no thanks).

Do it right, go with a full SYE conversion. The amount of lift really does not matter how you should go about solving the issue.

With the RE 3.5" lift you can run a front XJ cv-shaft shaft in the rear (what we're doing on Rebecca's XJ) without any problems. You can pickup front XJ shafts at your junkyard for typically less than $30. Throw in another $50 in new u-joints and your under $100 for a strong CV-style shaft.

You want to get something like this; http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15

Install is fairly straight forward, you just need a good set of snap ring plyers and if you take your time it's honestly rather easy. We actually include 2 sets of directions (one's we've put together with more pics) to make the install easier.

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Chris99XJ
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I still have all stock front & rear drive shaft's on my XJ Lead, I have the NP242
So what do you recommend for me ???????????????????????

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firehawk
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Chris99XJ wrote:

I still have all stock front & rear drive shaft's on my XJ Lead, I have the NP242
So what do you recommend for me ???????????????????????




I'll throw my .02 worth in here.  Based on my experience the H&T is plenty strong enough for the majority of XJ owners.  Mine has been on my 242 TC for over 3 years now with zero problems.  Granted I don't wheel my XJ all that much, but it has stood up to some heavy loads.  Thick mud, towing, some rocks, dragging over an a 1100 lb. dead horse, etc...bleh

Eric Zappe runs one on his Project Rubicon, and has had no problems.  He runs The Rubicon among other places.  MUCH tougher places to wheel than most anywhere around here.  His quote not mine, "The H&T is still stronger than the stock driveline".

I will admit a new output shaft might be the "ultimate" way to go, but most do not want to, or have the time to tear a TC down.  I know I didn't!  Anyway, IMO since you have the 242 TC, the H&T is the way to go.  It took me about an hour to install mine.  You will need a Spicer adapter on the front DS you will be using that bolts it to the H&T flange.  I can't remember the Spicer part number off hand though....sorry.

Good luck with whichever choice you make!biggrin

-- Edited by firehawk on Monday 14th of September 2009 09:44:47 PM

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On the NP242 the ONLY way to get a SYE is with a hack-n-tap setup. No manufacture makes a full SYE replacement for the NP242 TC.

On the NP231 you can go both ways. I'm just saying if you have a NP231 I'd go with the full SYE if I had to choose.

Here is the stock output shaft vs. the SYE output shaft. Compare the top portion of the shafts in the photo's...



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ChevelleSSLS6
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firehawk wrote:

 

Chris99XJ wrote:

I still have all stock front & rear drive shaft's on my XJ Lead, I have the NP242
So what do you recommend for me ???????????????????????




I'll throw my .02 worth in here.  Based on my experience the H&T is plenty strong enough for the majority of XJ owners.  Mine has been on my 242 TC for over 3 years now with zero problems.  Granted I don't wheel my XJ all that much, but it has stood up to some heavy loads.  Thick mud, towing, some rocks, dragging over an a 1100 lb. dead horse, etc...bleh

Eric Zappe runs one on his Project Rubicon, and has had no problems.  He runs The Rubicon among other places.  MUCH tougher places to wheel than most anywhere around here.  His quote not mine, "The H&T is still stronger than the stock driveline".

I will admit a new output shaft might be the "ultimate" way to go, but most do not want to, or have the time to tear a TC down.  I know I didn't!  Anyway, IMO since you have the 242 TC, the H&T is the way to go.  It took me about an hour to install mine.  You will need a Spicer adapter on the front DS you will be using that bolts it to the H&T flange.  I can't remember the Spicer part number off hand though....sorry.

Good luck with whichever choice you make!biggrin

-- Edited by firehawk on Monday 14th of September 2009 09:44:47 PM

 


You'll need DANA-211229X  It doesn't look too difficult to split the tcase, only the top center bolt (with a nut on the back) looks like a total b* with tcase in the Jeepdoh...  I really don't feel like dropping the tcase out of the Jeep, as it's the only vehicle I have insured right now.

 



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My Fleet
1996 XJ "Snowball"- 3.5" lift, bunch of little mods.  I hate pegleg rear axles!
1974 AMC Javelin "Jade Grenade"- 360v8, 4sp, green inside and out. Underfunded Project.
2009 Kawsaki Vulan 900 "Rocket III"- Summer DD
tjhawk
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When I did my SYE in my NP231 it was pretty straight forward. The directions were lack luster because they left out pages 3,7,9 and 13. I went to google for help with the missing pages and found the answers I needed. The only two gripes i have about my kit were as follows.
1. The new output shaft is thicker and requires you to remove your nice roller bearing assy and now you are forced to have a plain bearing. Now while I will take the 1/8 thicker shaft it did stink to get rid of that nice smooth roller bearing. But that is not really not too big of a deal.
2. My kit (Rugged Ridge from ebay $169.00 with free shipping out of Kenosha WI)had one annoying problem. My front diff got stuck in gear and wouldn't release. I ended up taking off my driveshaft so I could drive it home. Upon reinspection I found that the "helper" spring that helps to push back the shift fork was either too weak or too short to help get the shift fork back that last 1/8 inch or so. I couldn't find a spring localy so I cheated and stretched it 1/2 inch and stuffed it all back together. So far I have no problems with my t case except that recently my shift shaft seal has started leaking a bit. In my opinion just get the SYE and buy another front shaft for your rear. In the long run its worth it.

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firehawk
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I KNEW I had seen somewhere there was an SYE for the 242 transfercase, other than a Hack & Tap.  Try this link.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

-- Edited by firehawk on Monday 28th of September 2009 04:09:11 PM

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firehawk wrote:

I KNEW I had seen somewhere there was an SYE for the 242 transfercase, other than a Hack & Tap.  Try this link.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

-- Edited by firehawk on Monday 28th of September 2009 04:09:11 PM

Very first sentence says...

"Modified stock shaft"

All they are doing is doing the hack and tap for you...

 



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firehawk
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Modified stock shaft. Currently available for use with transfer cases having an original equipment 27 spline out-put on the transfer case. Fixed yoke output for the late model transfer case. Generally used in 1996 & newer Jeep applications. Do not confuse with other kits which use a modified stock out-put shaft. Conversion kit provide with; Precision modified main shaft that has been shortened and re-splined. The kit also includes an original equipment speedometer housing which has been re-machined to accept a standard ISI Seal Group # 62676 which is equal to the following major brands; National # 8695S or Chicago Rawhide (CR) # 15460.

The output shaft has been shortened, and resplined.  I'm sure they increased the spline count to increase the strength, why would they respline if they didn't.confuse  I know Tom Woods will have NOTHING to do with the H&T type SYE.

From the pictures on the website it appears the end product turns the output shaft to the rear DS into the same setup as the front DS output shaft.  There is no H&T type flange, just a yoke to bolt the included double cardan joint DS up.

My whole point on this is, after reading the OP I knew I had seen another method of getting rid of the slip joint on the 242 transfercase.  There was no mention in the OP about strength concerns.

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tjhawk
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In my opinion I cannot see why anyone would want that NP 242 in their rig at all. They have a ton of problems and as we all have found out parts are not avail cheap like the NP 231. I had bought a 90 XJ and the guy had already done the swap and sounds like all he had to do was swap the case and rear shaft as well as readjusting the linkage.

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aci4369
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The shifter inside the XJ is different too.  Well the shifter is the same, but the positions are different.  Did he change that on your XJ or do you know where your at from using it?

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firehawk
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tjhawk wrote:

In my opinion I cannot see why anyone would want that NP 242 in their rig at all. They have a ton of problems and as we all have found out parts are not avail cheap like the NP 231. I had bought a 90 XJ and the guy had already done the swap and sounds like all he had to do was swap the case and rear shaft as well as readjusting the linkage.




For a trail only rig, I would agree with you.  For people like me who drive their Jeep everyday having full time 4WD is sweet!  There are times where MOST of the street is covered with snow/ice, etc...  but what does a 231 TC owner do when the next corner you have to turn at is NOT covered with snow/ice?  Personally I just motor on around it.biggrin 

I have had my XJ in part time, and it WILL start to bind up on just wet pavement.  Myself, I will accept a "slightly" weaker TC in exchange for being able to have full time 4WD. 

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tjhawk
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aci4369 wrote:

The shifter inside the XJ is different too.  Well the shifter is the same, but the positions are different.  Did he change that on your XJ or do you know where your at from using it?


no by the time I sold it a few months later it was changed and the linkage was moved accordingly to match the gear/selector indicator. I think it was still the NP242 indicator when I got it but I spent a whopping 5 bucks and got the correct selector from a wrecking yard. There are no detents in the shifter just the transfercase.
As to the full time 4x4 thing I guess for the few times I may have to disengage the
4wd for a dry spot or two I guess I never really noticed much to really care about it.
 I do, however try as much as I can to drive in 2wd when at all possible. Sadly to say its always the idiots in the 4wd that think they can do 60 in 8 inches of snow and not end up causing an accident or go flying into the ditch. Darwin works in the auto world as well.biggrin

 



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aci4369
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tjhawk wrote:

Sadly to say its always the idiots in the 4wd that think they can do 60 in 8 inches of snow and not end up causing an accident or go flying into the ditch. Darwin works in the auto world as well.biggrin

 



 I have said it a million times.  4WD is not 4 wheel STOP.  You still get the same reaction when you have to slam on the breaks, no matter how many wheels are getting power.



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