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Topic: Headlight Switch Wiring Harness/Connector

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LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
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Headlight Switch Wiring Harness/Connector
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My wife's '94 XJ recently lost all parking lights/dash lights. I looked at it today and after removal of the headlight switch I noticed that the connector was melted a bit. I believe this to be the cause of a faulty headlight dimmer/switch.

Does anyone know where to purchase a new connector at? It's a 9-terminal connector and plugs directly into the headlight switch/dimmer. I simply just need the plastic connector as it looks like all the wiring/terminals are ok.

I believe that it is year specific from '92-96.

It plugs into the back of this;



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After spending a couple hours looking at the parts manuals etc. I don't think that I can just get the connector.

So...

Does anyone have a '92-'96 XJ that they are parting out?

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Here is a photo of the melted connector.



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firehawk
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Adam,

Does replacing this mean you will have to splice back into the main wiring harness? I don't know how much of a hurry you are in to fix this but, I could go over to the Pick a Part here in Indy and most likely find what your looking for.

I would need to know IF I had to cut the wires, how much length you need to splice it back together. Most likely... all I could get.... DOH!

Anyway, just a thought let me know and I could go over there Saturday AM.

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LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW
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FOUND IT!

AIRTEX Part # 1P1190



Local AutoZone was $10 more than RockAuto, but I should have it by 10AM in the morning so it ended up being cheaper in the long run.

Just for future reference of anyone looking for one. AutoZone calls it a Duralast Part and the # is 583.

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aci4369
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I just did this in my Taurus.  Exact same thing happend and it fixed it.  I went to the junk yard and cut one out of another Taurus.  Same cost $10

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Fixed...

Lets just say that it was not a fun job. Getting the headlight switch out is not at all easy.

For anyone for future reference...

1) No the surround does not come out; it's part of the dash and can not be replaced. SO BE CAREFULL UPON REMOVAL!
2) Yes the switch does come out as a whole; so quit pondering if it does cause it does...
3) The pull lever does not "twist" to remove. You can twist all day and it will not come out.
4) To get the pull lever out; you have to push a little button on the switch itself and pull the lever at the same time. Their is a hole cut into the mount that allows you to get a 2yr old's finger threw it; nothing larger. So be prepared to lay on your back with a flashlight in your mouth and say bad words...
5) Yes the wiring harness comes off of the switch. Yes they only gave you 1/8" extra play in the wiring harness to remove it.
6) No removing the gauge cluster is not the best way to get to it. So don't sit there and think "If I only remove that it'll be easier to go to" IT WON'T BE!
7) Give yourself an extra 2 hours over what you think it will take to do the job; you'll use every second of the extra 2 hours...
8) If you don't put that stupid ground wire back on your dash lights probably won't work. Attach the ground to the switch BEFORE putting the switch back into the hole in the dash.
9) Use a wide flat screwdriver and go slow turning the retaining screw holding the switch to the dash. You break the housing you'll have to replace the entire dash to fix it.
10) Did I get the point across yet that it's not a fun job?!?

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aci4369
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Sounds like a fun filled saturday.

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HuNtS
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haha i had t change my switch out in an autozone parking lot cuz it fried.. thank god my fingers are small enough for that hole, the bottom skirt of the dash was already out (never put it in after taking the dash off last time) and i had a utility knife handy to get the screw thing out.. lol

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