Per request, I am writing a "simple electric fan switch" write-up. Since I am no expert electrician, I assume I will get flamed soon for some aspect of this installation. This modification is for when your electrical fan no longer comes on when it is supposed to to cool your engine. I did this modification around 1 year ago and get consistent questions as to how I did it.
You will need: ~30' of wire capable of running 12v constant (I used wire that the store recommended for wiring fog lights, but don't have the gauge/#) 1 Rocker switch (I used a lighted one to make it easy to see when I have it on at night) Wire cutter/stripper tool (needle-nose pliers will work) You could also use some nifty wire end/splicing thing-a-mabobbers, but twisting & electrical tape'll work too.
First, you have to determine whether or not your fan actually works & which wire is the positive & negative. Once you have determined it doesn't work, unplug the fan from the harness & cut the wiring as close to the plug as possible (there isn't much wire coming from the fan).
Next, you need to run your wiring from the power source to the switch to the fan.
I used the battery input terminal on my starter relay for the source of constant power. I took the wire & bent it in half & ran it into the passenger side fender under the hood towards the back. From there I fished the wire through the antenna grommet in the pass side kick panel. I stretched the wire over to the steering wheel (for a little extra) and then tied it there so it didn't pull back in for now.
I took one end of the wire & cut it to length to end at the starter relay. I took the other end & cut it to end at the fan. Cut a small length of wire & attach your ground wire. Attach your positive wire end to the fan positive & touch the wire to the power source; your fan should be on. Check your ground wire if it does not come on. Unattach your positive wire from your power source.
Now, you will need to remove the "trim" panel under the dash from the passenger side over to the glovebox area if you are mounting your switch there. (just a few screws & clips hold this in place)
I drilled holes for the wires to go through, recessed switches may require more detailed "dremel" work. Next, I cut that "double" wire at the bend & figured out which one was the "hot" wire & which was the "power" wire to the fan. I attached the wires (through the dash piece) to the switch. I also attached the ground wire through the panel to the floorboard/hump to allow for the light to work when the switch is on.
After that, get out a few wire ties & secure the slack wires under the dash/hood & reattach your dash piece.
I hope this answers some basic questions & gives you direction to install your own switch to replace a malfunctioning one.
eh, no need for any flamin here. "flamin's for kids". looks just like a good simple write up... gets the job done right? good idea for the manual switch by the way.
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SCORE!: 1996 Cherokee Sport, bone stock, excellent condition, one owner, with currently 47,000 ORIGINAL miles!!
CURRENTLY: 2001 Cherokee Limited 4-dr, 33" Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts, 6-8" well built custom lift (sorry, i haven't measured yet).
SOLD: Project Rig: 87 Cherokee Pioneer 4dr. bone stock now. coming soon: 3" budget lift, go completely doorless and chop the rear cargo area out.